Just looking to see what everyone’s current method for deck building is.
Currently I have just been building normal longboards no e-skate boards yet (I assume they might need to be stiffer or is it still just personal preference?).
My current method.
7-10 layers of Maple veneer depending on flex requirements (Usually 7-8 for a good amount of flex)
2 cross grain cores per board.
Titebond III wood glue
3D Printed mold with pre located truck holes in the mold. Also 3D printed templates for the cut out and nose/tail profiles that lock into the truck holes.
For shaping the board I also 3D print the neck shape I am looking for and trace it onto the blank then draw out the rest using a straight edge and drawing bow. Cut it out on the bandsaw and sand with an edge sander and palm sander.
Nice work. I’m glad you found your way here. E-boards are often the same as traditional longboards and sometimes stiffer(like you guessed). Drop decks are popular to keep locked in with the extra power.
The first set of boards I made for my kids a couple years back I used the press and wood caul method. In the end I think I can get a more accurate shapes and such with the 3D molds and vacuum.
Forgot to mention that for the drop through cut out I use a large forstner bit to punch the original hole through and a large flush trim bit to clean out the rest. The flush trim bit bearing rides along the 3D printed nose template to keep the shape. I also do the exterior of the nose/tail this way.
My methods are very similar to yours except I have a preference towards bamboo. I’m also fortunate enough to have a CNC router for mold fab and deck cutting. Shaping is all done with handheld power tools.
I really like finishing with fiberglass and epoxy. It makes the deck super strong and lighter. It also allows you to manipulate the flex and add graphics. I’d argue that FG skinning is one of the upgrades that helps to make a proper esk8 deck. That and shaping that accommodates motors and drive systems.
Actually I am just reading through the thread about your integrated decks project. Nice work!
I have a couple questions about your method if you don’t mind? For your FG skinning are you vacuuming the FG to the board or just a hand lay up? Also do you do a skim coat/hot coat the bottom of the boards after the FG skinning for a nicer finish? (Kind of like the surfboard/SUP guys do).
I am still debating for my first e-skate build if I want to do a FG reinforcement or just a thicker stiffer board.
Thank you! I do a hand lay-up. It simplifies things… a lot. I do a saturation coat, 1-2 fill coats and then I sand. After sanding I do a thin gloss coat.
FG application is an art and craft. It’s difficult to master but well worth it. It will take your decks to a new level. I’m always happy to talk fiberglass and epoxy. There is also a lot on the web about it.
Thanks for the response. I am currently building a normal longboard for my wife I might try experimenting with some FG on that one before I get onto my eskate build.
I hear you on the FG art/craft I do a lot of woodworking and much like it you need to plan ahead as when things go wrong during a layup there is no time for a fix.
Most of my FG experience so far has been with repairing things and I have just started getting into making parts using 3d printed molds. (Mostly for race car applications diffusers/winglets/wings etc) Probably would be smart just not to break things in the first place but got to try and win right!
Another note on making esk8-specific decks. People seem to like ‘em wide. I think there are a few reasons for this. For one, it gives you more room for a wider enclosure and more electronic shit. Additionally, slim decks are good for pushing because you don’t have to reach out far to kick, but with esk8s this isn’t a consideration, so you might as well go wide and give yourself some room.
I’m looking at skinning a deck at the moment.
What FG fabric type do you think works best? There’s a bit of info online, but everyone seems to be doing something a bit different. So I’m finding it hard to make a decision. Also, are you using poly or epoxy resin?
Woven roving cloth, 4-10oz. Poly smells bad. I use marine grade epoxy resin. West systems 105 epoxy with 207 special-clear hardener is my fav.
I’m experimenting with using a pouring grade epoxy for my gloss coat. Pouring epoxy levels better and gets fewer bubbles. I figure it might work better for the final coat.
Woven roving seems to be the standard for this type of thing. It provides bi-directional reinforcement. It’s widely available. There are different weaves that you could try. I bet they would work great. They’re just harder to source and will likely cost more.
I only use 1 layer of fiberglass that is selected for the desired flex, but you can do more. After the saturation step (step 1) on layer one has cured, sand it lightly and add another layer.
Is that the same as “carving” epoxy? The stuff they use for river tables.
Conceptually it makes sense to me to use a laminating epoxy along with FG and for the top coat, a coating epoxy formula. Practice might show otherwise though.
Is this direct at me or Tomi? My boards are around the 8.75"-9.25" width by 38-40" long range but if you look on Tomi’s website his boards are usually in the 9.75-10" width by 38-42" range. That is for the drop through style decks
