Yes I went with this one:
Makes some funny noises as the load changes but it works really reliably.
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This is the buck I’m using. It’s superbadass and cheap ss fuck!
Using it on 18s without issues. Also has a 5v enable circuit that will let your vesc turn it on/off. Regulated 5v output!!! I’ve been searching for this piece of the pie for quite a while.
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And you want us to keep searching? 
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Right? Where is the link or are you a drop shipper now 
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Thanks!
Use Google for what though? An image search?
Sure seems to me that if one was so extensively extolling the virtues of a converter in a converter info thread that they would have wanted to post the link so others could buy it too. But perhaps I am missing something.
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There it is, your holiness
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Ahh…yes…personal attacks, definitely the way to take this. Not unexpected but a disappointment nonetheless.
But, please, feel free to continue in this direction. I want to support your efforts to be part of this community and to see you continue to add your valuable insights to this discussion.
This is my thread and I demand everyone be buddies
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So i grabbed a couple of these, they keep popping when plugging them in when putting power to them. ¯_(ツ)_/¯ they don’t work for me.
12v and 5v versions. Put it on a power supply with current limited to .5a input at 54v and seemed to work well. Plugged it into an 18s battery (74v) and everything pops. Killed the three i had
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Seems like a pretty tiny unit, to have a 3 amp rating.
My google foo was lacking too, and Ive yet to pop my aliexpress cherry.
Before the link was provided, i bought this from Ebay, nearly instantly regretted it, as some how I let myself assume it was good for 3 to 5 amps, when product description says only 0.75 amps
It arrived a few days ago, I’ve not opened the mylar package, yet.
It’s physically larger than expected too.
That’s odd, how much load are you putting on them?
I’m currently running 2 of them on 18s in my onewheel builds.
Quite a few others in the onewheel vesc community are running these also. That’s where i found it about them.
Popped with no load, total would have been .5a on the 5v and 2.3a on the 12v.
Don’t know what i did wrong then - bench tested the circuit on a 3a power supply - soldered the leads on - tested on the power supply - plugged into the battery - instantly popped - figured it was a bad unit so swapped- popped the second- double checked the wireing - popped the third - threw a small tantrum lol
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They are unbelievably unstable though, running on the ragged edge almost all the time. It’s very easy to get them to pop.
Brings down the cost but makes them a pretty terrible choice for most things. Glad some have gotten lucky with them though!
Are you not running a ground to the voltage in?
This is how i wire mine up to bench test.
I’ve always used the ground on the input side. Full voltage and ground, then 5v enable and ground.
I’ve actually tried a few different voltage regulators with an enable switch and this has been the best one for me. I’ve got another one that works well also, it’s just a little bigger. Let me see if i can find the link for it.
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Here is the second voltage regulator with enable. This is what Atlow shop sells in all of his vesc builds.
And here is the link to them.
I ended up running an 880ohm resistor to the r2 pads. Use the gnd pad for the 5v gnd enable and the 5v goes to the En pad.
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I was using the full voltage for the control because at the point of the circuit i was using it there is not a 5v io that can be used. The pin is effectively shorted to positive input and the ground is shared. (This 5v runs a bms fan only during charging and doesn’t run when vesc is on. Also the vesc 5v gnd reference is shorted to the pack negative so although i would run it if using that I didn’t in this case.
I actually was able to get a 4th to work using the exact same wiring and still don’t know if i had done anything wrong here and am very suspicious of the thing lol. I wanted to replace my 8-70v to 12v buck because i hit 74v with 18s and figured i was pushing my luck using it for lights as well as wanting to use the enable input via a 3.3v io output on the zmote to control the lights.
Do you get good thermal performance from either of these? I worry about sieving them in shrink and overheating them but I don’t have anything to go off of other than them feeling quite warm on my bench with only 1a of load
Also, what size is that 880ohm surface mount you use? I may just grab one for my 12v rail if the next batch of aliexpress mini bucks get murdered by me again
Thermals for these are usually terrible for the ratings they quote. That is, their true current rating is a lot lower.
Try shrink wrapping one but then slitting the wrap apart on the bottom of the board. Cover it with a cloth (to simulate being in an enclosure) and run it for an hour with the wrap still on. Then uncover it and quickly peel off the wrap and see how toasty things are. Wayyy too hot to touch (might only be in one small spot, but that’s important too) is probably getting too hot. A discolored pcb or warped/melted shrink wrap is definitely a bad sign. 
You only get a few seconds to check though, after that it’s cooled down a lot and you’ll need to put the wrap back on and let it run for a while.