Hold the middle button while booting up to enter the menu.
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I swear I tried this before… Anyway, I got it updated… 
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Will a davega show data for 2 ESC’s? All 4 corners of a 4wd setup?
That’s pretty cool, all connected over can. Just reading from the 1 UART I’m assuming?
Yes and it can be plugged into any of the ESCs so if you have one (or two) ESCs at either end, then you can just plug it into one at the front.
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What ESCs are you running?
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One small thing to be aware of is that there is a bug that Jan reported to Vedder way back in 2021 and I believe it still hasn’t been fixed. It applies to dual ESCs with a single MCU such as Unity/Xenith and Stormcores and only affects consumption figures but basically in some instances the Wh in/out numbers reported by VESC are sometimes wacky. To get around this, there’s a setting in the DAVEGA called “interpolate energy” that you can enable and it will disgard the numbers fom motor 2 and interpolate the values from motor 1. This will report something that should be more accurate. On one of my boards I’m running two Stormcores so I have this setting enabled.
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I’ve got 2 d75’s. Will be good to see how my battery is handling the punishment
I got a watchdog fault the other night, and at the same time my davega restarted itself. I kept riding conservatively that night to see if the error would repeat. The watchdog fault did not come back, but by the end of the night the Davega was resetting itself multiple times while riding. It continues to do this, but only after a solid 30 minutes plus of riding, but then it happens over and over… Last night it stopped connecting to the vesc for a good 5 miles and then suddenly it reconnected. I’ve already checked both connectors and nothing is loose or frayed, the wire is shielded in loom and glued in place inside my enclosure so I don’t believe that’s the problem. I read something about watchdog errors having something to do with the 5v rail, but I can’t find anything more specific than that… I’m also running the newest davega fw on spintend custom 6.0fw. Any ideas?
Watchdog error can also be caused from the MCU running out of resources from too high a switching frequency, maybe try 15-20kHz?. If you’re willing you can also try moving back to FW5.1/5.2/5.3?
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I just got a chance to check on this and mine was set at 30. I played with it on the bench and gave it a shot at 25. I don’t really understand how they are related, but it seemed to help the Davega. This time it only rebooted once after a micro-cutout and that was after I let off the throttle and was coasting. I checked for faults and none were reported by either side, so I have no idea what the deal is there… It also seemed to eliminate a low voltage fault that I’ve been getting on the bench when running max duty for more than a few minutes. I know everyone says it’s a bad connector, but I have literally checked the entire battery to ESC power train, re-flowed some and nothing helped… After changing the switching frequency to 25… I ran it at max duty until the motor cutoffs kicked in at 100c and no low voltage faults… I’m considering all of this a WIN! THANK YOU for suggesting I make the change!
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Have an older unit, (pcb says V1.1) I’m finally getting around to using. Has anything major changed with newer versions?
I see this double sided rubber tape gasket is being supplied now to seal the screen protector in, prob a good thing for me to do something similar since I live in one of the wettest areas of the country. What’s a good equivalent domestically (US) available, or has anyone tried just RTVing or gluing it down to seal? Only double sided tape I have on hand is foam tape, too thick, or like a fiber reinforced type, neither of which I suspect of being effective at discouraging liquid ingress.
I’ll just print a TPU version of the bottom rubber gasket or cut one out by hand, that’s no problemo.
I’ve done this. Kinda a pain to apply the perfect amount so that none squeezes out onto the glass, but it’s doable.
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Nothing major. The main thing is that the v1.2 takes 5V input whereas v1.1 takes 3.3V.
Here’s the AliExpress link for the tape (2mm width). Not US, but maybe it still helps.
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I haven’t been pursuing it because it’s too complicated. There are too many LLT variants and there are different BT modules as well, some of which are known not to work with DAVEGA (link).
For 12S setups, FlexiBMS is a much better option. Above 12S, Ennoid BMS is great, though a bit pricey.
Does this mean I can’t use a DAVEGA with a pack that has a LLT BMS?