4.07. did not really check anything else as i started riding sunday after updating to latest
2wd, trampa mk3’s running 5.02
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Sorry, I don’t understand this part. What’s 11 and what’s 4?
Are you talking about motor amps or battery amps?
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Skip to the last 10 seconds. Most of that section shows “4” on both rows near speed. When i’m accelerating hard (on other occasions) i can get both of them to show around 20 each but never really passed much beyond that. Vescs are limited to 50 battery amps/side and i can see in stats i reach that (showing 50 and 50 with 100 total, which is correct)
This is what it is set up as
Oh, I see now! The number is displayed vertically. Sorry if that’s confusing. There wasn’t another good way to make it fit into the available area.
So, if you’re getting 4 on the top row and 9 on the bottom row, that’s actually 49. 
And, to make it even more confusing, if you get past 99, a big 1 is displayed on the left from both numbers, which indicates a hundred.
There’s no way you got it to show 20 each. They show single digit numbers.
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Hm… i can guarantee i seen them on 11+ on each row (not sure if 11 and 11), not sure about 20 either. I think i’ll ride a bit later to make sure i understand what’s shown there
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I finally found the post that talks about the feature (I thought it was in this thread; apparently not):
@Athrx, you might have seen something like this:
Now this is actually 199.
Edit: This post is even more relevant.
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Yep…
Turned to motor amps to cheat the numbers a bit and:
I think something weird happened when i did hit 200A (not on this occasion) but beyond that i understand what’s going on there now.
It remains a bit confusing though…
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The anodizing factory agreed to do more colors without charging me extra. Look what I just picked up.
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Sell me a green housing please 🥲
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DAVEGA Blaze it green.
They will be available in the e-shop soon. I yet need to get laser etching done. I might be able to get some laser time next week. The laser is busy this week.
I’m out of some critical components so DAVEGAs will be out of order for 2-3 weeks anyway. If anyone only wants the housing or the X-bracket, those should be available earlier.
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How do we go about sending a complete set in green to uk? I’m talking housing, baseplate, xplate (and 1-2 glass screen covers).
Also, not laser etched if possible, or just the arrows, or arrows + davega logo 180°. I find the up button on the right a bit counterintuitive and i’d prefer to spin it around… but then logo is upside down
I’m reworking the DAVEGA PCB with the idea of no longer relying on ESP32 development boards, which would make the design cleaner and would speed up manufacturing. Soldering the ESP32 development boards on the current DAVEGA PCB is tedious.
Since I’m already at it, I would like to make the USB port easier to access, ideally such that you don’t need to take the DAVEGA apart to access the port.
Here’s what I came up with so far:
This seems to work but there are a few problems with it.
First, the UART cable is now slightly more difficult to plug in since the nearest button wires are a little bit in the way. This is very minor and essentially a no issue. I can also make the button wires longer which will help. It’s still slightly worse than before.
Second, there’s not enough space for a standard USB cable. You need a right angle USB cable, which most people won’t have at home so it would probably have to come with the DAVEGA. These are cheap so it’s not a big deal. It’s still another thing to worry about.
Also, the insulation on the USB connector needs to be cut so that it fits. Again, not a problem but not ideal either.
Overall, I’m not sure whether this design change wouldn’t actually be a step back.
With the firmware v4.xx it should be very rare that you need to access the USB port. It’s actually only in case of a flash memory corruption, in which case you need to do a clean firmware installation. I haven’t had any reported with v4.xx though so it might be it’s finally fixed.
I wonder what people think. Change the connector positions or better keep as is?
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I’ll PM you.
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Can you put the usb and connectors on the first pcb and cutout the correct holes through the second one?
Same way trampa does it
This way everything fits on the first pcb and the second one is just a mask/protection (i did not open mine to see if there’s more going on there)
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Modifying the display PCB is currently not an option. Otherwise, I agree that would be the best solution.
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Then:
Hope it’s somewhat readable. Blue parts mean places usb can be soldered on. That leaves quite a bit of space for the usb plastic handle/shell to fit
Or:
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No, thanks for trying but that won’t work. I still need to put the MCU and other stuff on the PCB. There’s not that much space available. The cutout I have on the mockup can’t actually be much larger than that.
Edit: The big rectangular cutout in the middle on the mockup is just to save filament. That area will be populated on the actual PCB.
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Ah, didn’t realise there’s more going on on that pcb. Usb would need 3-4cm straight line to connect, not easy to do.
One more idea i have is to take a micro usb pcb and put a 4pin jst plug on it, that way it can be removed just like the uart cable. That will cost a bit more in parts and the usb thingy can be lost in time
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I say keep it as is. If access to the USB port is needed, whats the difference between removing 4 bolts (to take the unit off the mounting plate) vs 8 bolts (to also unscrew the PCB from the housing)? Seems like a lot of headache for not a lot of gain.
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