Ah shit, then you have to micro usb in and run it from octoprint or similar.
So this doesn’t work for you @moon?
1 Like
Yeah that doesnt work. But that guy helped me so much just now.
With the first 5mins of this video
Extrude 100mm with this disattached
My esteps must be fine. I told it to extrude 100mm and it did so.
1 Like
Hmm I have always read you should leave the hotend and tubing connected while extruding so it has its normal resistance.
I also did it with the tubing connected to the extruder motor but not connected to the extruder
Still get 100mm.
Flow test next
Turned my ender 3 pro off, unplugged from wall, unplugged xt60 and moved it, plugged all back in and it won’t turn on now. Any ideas?
I finally got all my direct drive components in!
what systems are you guys using and loving?
I like the reviews on the hydra setup but don’t like that it still uses ptfe and isn’t all metal.
This one looks minimal but I don’t need the bl touch
2 Likes
Oooo I may try this
Do you guys still use a tiny bit of ptfe tube and the coupler on the v6 hotends?
The bmg extruder looks like it has a bit of extra space for the coupler to stick out.
thanks @Venom121212 moved over here since it was getting off topic.
do you think I just need to clean the accumulated plastic on the gripper feeder wheel and it would stop my skipping issue?
It certainly could but I’d watch it print and see if it’s grinding and skipping from being too tight or too loose. Could you tell if it was loose and slipping or too tight and binding?
You can always turn the speed down and temp up a bit in a pinch but you shouldn’t have to.
1 Like
Yes. In the all metal direct drive upgrade thread I have a video by the BGM people showing how to assemble. It is still all metal hotend even if you use this piece of PTFE tube because this never gets heated…
2 Likes
@Venom121212 just pulled out that gear. Does this look normal? PLA did this to brass (I assume)?! I’m going to go shift the gear a to use the good spots and see if it fixes anything
Yeah use a better spot. It was probably too tight. The nicer gears have recessed grooves to grab filament better.
1 Like
Any suggestions as to how to clean this up a bit. Where do I start?
Ender 3 V2 Marlin firmware from 3/22/2021 BLTouch, Micro Swiss hotend, Creality direct drive kit. Replaced PTFE with Capricorn. 32bit board 4.2.2.
Looks like it’s overextruding still.
Did you do an estep calibration yet?
If so, have you printed a retraction tower test to see what retraction values look best for you?
1 Like
Looks much better than before. I’d start there.
Personally I like to print a small square, maybe around 50mm x 2mm tall and watch just the first layer or 2.
After it runs the perimeter walls, it will start doing the zigzag stitching to fill the rest in. This is a good tell of if your flow is too high or low. If there are gaps between lines, flow is low. If there are raised edges on all the overlapping lines, bump the flow down a few percent on the printers screen (not speed, you want flow) until it is nice and smooth.
2 Likes
Thx for the info. Looks like I have home work tonight. These were all before the hotend swap.
3 Likes
I was really excited that I got the Ender3v2 working again with the micro Swiss hotend and direct drive. I printed a shroud and put the fans on it. I managed to poke a screwdriver into one of the fans…snapped off a blade, so I used a 12v fan with a castle creations ubec. I’ll unhack it later.
I forgot how capable the ender is. I think it’s going to be a dedicated PLA only machine.
Will I get any reasonable sound reduction with a noctua fan swap for the power supply and part cooling bits?
5 Likes
Does it have a silent board on it?
I.e. Do you hear the motors as the bed or hotend moves around?
The noctua fans are all well reputed for being quiet but I haven’t tried them yet.
On the flip side, the larger 5010 fans are stupidly loud and blow too fast.
4 Likes