The pictures i sent are not the end result btw, i havent taken pics, will do in a sec.
Keep at it man you’re so close. How are you testing the twists are you just eyeballing it?
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No im adjusting the nose/ tail with a level. The dents in the concave go by feel/look. I scraped the nose/tail with a plate so there are minimal dents in that. The small level differences will be polished out when the epoxy goes on.
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Here you have it the Subsonic Century construction with some finishing details.
9 Ply Maple with 2 x fibreglass layers embedded and it should be a-ok
It seems the original bunch used as a group buy here with the superb eboosted enclosures were regular decks with no fibre layers used.
Anyhow - this should help you out with the final details
Construction: 9 ply Canadian maple with two layers of fiberglass
Length: 40"
Width: 9 3/4" to 9 1/2"
Drop: 2"
Concave: 1/2" radial
Camber: 1/4"
Wheelbase: 32 1/2", 33" (82.5cm, 83.8cm)
Front Angle: +10°
Rear Angle: -10°
[quote=“Bradley, post:66, topic:17549”]
Subsonic has a production model Century 40. [ It is built with 7 plies of maple and has 2 layers of embedded fiberglass, intended for Long Distrance Pushing and Pumping and is quite flexy. A stronger deck is recommended by us for DIY E-Builds followed by Any deck that has 9 plies of maple or 8+ plies with composites would be suitable for DIY E-Builds. A 7 ply with two layers of Triaxle Fiberglass would be workable.
Adding any of the three composite materials to your board will beef up the structure and make your board more durable. Composites can be added to both top and bottom, or to one side only. If just ordering one sheet of composite material it’s recommended to have it on the bottom.
Fiberglass adds torsional strength to the board. Carbon fiber is the stiffest of the three and works best on the bottom of the board for a solid base. Texalium is a lighter-weight fiberglass with an aluminum finish. Some riders choose one material for the top and different one for the bottom.
The major difference is in the finished look of the board. Carbon fiber provides a satin black finish with barely any visibility to the wood underneath. Texalium has a flashy silver tri-axial weave that also covers the wood below. Fiberglass, on the other hand, is translucent once the resin has cured, so stain colors and patterns on the wood are visible through the weave of the glass. All three are good choices!
https://www.subsonicskateboards.com/pages/faqs
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So, this is STILL alive and kicking even. Apparently its a lot of work, who would have guessed 
.
Last testing press was good.
Still some imperfections but im happy enough to go through. Bottom half of the mould is epoxied, once with glass beads, then an overcoat. Its been polished, now to finish the top half! First coat of glass bead epoxy has been applied. So close!
Next time i make a press, it will be a fully glass fibre variant.
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Really would love to take a look at your workshop/ do a race if I visit NL again
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You are welcome!
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So, because i also want to press composites i was not happy enough with the smoothness of the mould, i coated it a few times with epoxy and sanded it. Then to see pits etc, i painted everything black and sanded everything back to paintless, this way i can see some dents in my epoxy and patch it. All in all its a lot of work, but im getting there.
Its winter here with a lot of rain and even some floods, so its complete ass to do anything. Because of the moist, a corner of the plaster swelled up and broke my epoxy coat so now i have to fix that too, but that goes with the filling of the cavities.
Excuse me for the poor quality pictures.
The mould is a smooooth boy though.
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