Make it Sensorless and see if it still over heats if it doesn’t then you know the sensors is messed up. I think you can adjust them also. I seen a area for it on the vesc tool but I run sensorless so idk much. But I know sensors go bad or get programmed wrong
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Are your mounts aluminium or something less conductive?
Try sensored hybrid bldc.
Motors like air. I’m not surprised the motor gets hot at 67A max current, calculated to speed of 58 Km/h and no airflow inside the motor.
Heat is a vicious circle. Hot motors have a higher resistance and high resistance creates more heat.
Also FOC parameters drift away.
If you like, run in BLDC and compare heat.
For a closed CAN motor I would decrease motor Amps to 50.
Batt current max brake is way to low BTW. 25A is about right.
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Check if the motor is actually hot as others said
The beta factor of the temp sensor has to be right for the displayed temperature be correct
@esk8manbabes what beta factor do you have in your VESC? lets compare to what he has
You would hate what I have mine set at then lol. I run open can motors though.
Seriously I run 80 motpr max and 40 per side batt. -40 max brake and -6 per regen. 12s4p
Very hilly area and I’m 17 stone and all this happens in the sub tropics. Even mid summer when its 40 degrees never do my motors get too hot to touch. Theres an issue with his set up but I can’t see it. I said from the start I think its bad information rather than a fault.
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Damn man, I’m running a 12s4p also and have my settings a lot lower. Do you have a bms on that battery, if so what amp is it rated for?
Dareno
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That ones running a big bestech discharge but it was a special order at 120 amps. I would usually only run charge only otherwise. Its huge though. I reckon I could have got another p pack in there if it was a small charge only. Been an absolute stellar bit of kit though. Only had to reset it once due to a bad charger and it keeps things in line nicely and has an e switch which takes so much hassle out of the wiring.
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Can you show us a screenshot of the parameters on the VESC detection page. More specifically what is the winding resistance?
Also if you could calculate the KV of the motor that would give us more information. If you give me a screenshot of the real time information page showing battery voltage, duty cycle and erpm, when at full throttle(in air) that would be awesome.
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Things just got real.
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I’m gonna be a dick cause no information you gave us would indicate an issue.
So I think the issue is you ride like an animal. And the solutions is 4WD!
Or we can do more sciency things to find the problem like @mishrasubhransu suggests?
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Settings are just part of the equation.
What are you average currents?
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Also I would look closely at the way you have your drive system set up. Check that parts can move freely and are not rubbing. There is no way the motors should be getting that hot, as it’s both I would assume it’s not the motors but something else to do with your setup
like @Dareno said, there’s something up with the motor. you should always be able to touch it… it shouldn’t be getting that hot
i run my sk8’s at 95a motor max each, -65 motor min, 35a battery max and -20a battery min. Even in Australia when its like 40 degrees they’re fine
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Overlooked point here. If you have your belts like guitar strings then yes you would get some heat build up.
Examine how you ride too.
Lots of prolonged hill climbs and constant braking downhill, standing starts on hills etc. All of these things can put pressure on the motors. Even on flats if you give a small kick to start it can make a difference.
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I haven’t touched the beta value so it should be at its default value of 3380.0 K from the tool 0.94 that has the 3.37, 3.38 firmware support.
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Yeah I remembered a similar thread from the other forum https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/motor-overheating/52919
same motor and everything IMO it was mostly a result of the bad belt alignment based on the way the pulley was mounted to the 76mm wheels. There where issues with the thermisistor but if its actually getting as hot as he claims there is something wrong with the setup creating extra heat.
Could be a bad solder joint or shorting somewhere but i think there’d be more serious issues if that was the case.
Have you solved this? I have the same Maytech 6374 190kV sealed motors and they get way too hot, up to 100 degrees. You cannot touch them, you’ll burn your fingers, it’s not a misreading.
Metr:
I did actually change the beta value just now. Only because I read this in the Maytech remote manual and I figured Maytech knows its own values best:
But changing the beta value doesn’t change the actual overheating and upping it from 3380 to 3950 has barely any impact on the reading.
Apart from that, I’m testing it with the motors unloaded, no wheels, no gears, just up in the air and freewheeling. They get over 50 degrees within 2 minutes. I used a calibrated thermometer to check, I was measuring 49 degrees on the can while the sensor read 52 degrees in the can, checks out to be correct. I have no clue what I can do about it, this is just weird.
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Seized bearing or something like that? Theres a crazy loss somewhere, probably new motor time unless you got a good bearing puller, shoulder bolts and patience.