@glyphiks is correct. Amass lowered their ratings I think. IMHO, this is probably for CYA reasons.
An XT90 can probably do 90A continuous, that’s 24 hours a day. And probably 180A for a few seconds. You likely couldn’t even stand on a board that was drawing any more current than that anyway.
MR60 are generally going to be just big enough to handle any load a normal 63100 or smaller esk8 motor will be drawing. I haven’t had any overheat, nor have I heard any reports of it happening. I’ve got one motor set at 165A motor max using an MR60 with no issues.
Also see this:
So you can see that a 12AWG wire will burn before the Amass brand XT90 gives up. In one experiment, the XT90 was desoldering itself above 270A. It was carrying 270A for ten seconds.
that is correct, i was doing research on awg wire physical dimension and their standard and come across this table which i need a easy remember place for future reference
there are also data on different frequency affect and other random bits which isn’t what im looking for so i did not include it in
This is a bad idea I know but curious about using this for a charge port and loopkey. As a charge port shouldn’t be a problem but wondering about as a loopkey. anyone have a really high amp power supply to test or maybe could extrapolate from a lesser current? Comparing the surface area it looks like it has potential
Question pls.
I’m building a 14s3p battery using A123 cells.
For the P groups I was going to use 8mm x 0.3mm nickel strip which the seller has rated as 50amp. (Is this over kill? For the Series connection I was going to double the same strip up so 2x 8mm x 0.3mm
Any help appreciated. Thx
First thing is to understand the difference between instantaneous and continuous ratings.
0.3mmx8mm should be slightly above 0.3x7mm in the chart above, and those can definitely do 50A instantaneous, but unlikely continuous without getting rather toasty.
Out of curiosity, where does nickle plated copper fit in this?
Is it out cuz it is hard to weld?
It seems a bit hard to find, but I could find it some places, that seemed trustworthy, I don’t really trust Aliexpress and similar when it comes to nickle strips and similar, especially when it is for high current devices
I’m a noob, but was able to make my self a decent 80v battery for my onewheel following Mario Contino’s guide I’m not a complete noob when it comes to electronics, but this was my first battery pack
2p19s 21700 molicel
The chart is a living document and can be amended as awareness increases. It’s also explicitly designed for DIY esk8 building.
There are countless ways conductor conduction can be measured and analyzed, and countless measurements acceptability can be quanticized at. That was pretty much the point: to boil it down into a handy chart to use when building personal electric vehicles, specifically. The goal here is to present less information, not more.
If you really need to know heaps of details then there’s always the nuclear option: an R&D budget and testing.
If anyone does that, please share some more empirical data.
I am biased, i just don’t want to use anything smaller than 18 for current. Too fiddly and small for more than sensors or balance stuff. Also i just did a battery setup for 60a charge current… but then i chickened out and got a 2300w charger instead of the 4000w one because smaller is worth 10min to me
20awg silicone wire is often 200c rated also so you can probably get away with more than the nec 60,75, or 90c columns ai search results give you
That said some solders melt at 180C and the solder joints might also create their own heat potentially, so possibly those are a bit hotter… Just something to consider. Not like I’d be comfortable having over 100C wire in my board anyway.
