Thanks for your kind words, but this is my deal. I have to take full responsibility for this. Not a problem, I got you guys.
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But its not our goal to leave you at a possible loss if youâre done with it.
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I will not be at a loss. Thanks for your concern though.
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it wonât i guess, the hole pattern seems to be in weird places (for the heatsink)
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Got this mounted and @surfnacho pointed out the other mounting holes 
So the plate attaches to the heatsink with these (4 x M3)
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Is thermal compound recommended between the plates and/or under the ESC? Iâm leaning towards not using it because itâs messy and seems to be a tight fit. Any thoughts?
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there is graphene thermal pad if u donât want to deal with the mess 
but i heard they donât work all that well
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Thermal pad will be beneficial. if you are experiencing thermal throttling without the sink I would highly recommend. Generally not using a thermal interface would be âwasted potentialâ
From what iIâve read , thermal paste > thermal pads.
thats of course not always true.
I will be using Kryonaut on my setup.
In fact, I would highly recommend thermal compound between plate and sink as well as esc and plate. The sink isnt thermally optimal for a few reasons, though Im guestimating itll still help a good amount.
if anyone cares, the anodized layer is essentially an increase in porosity and if you learned anything in thermo (congrats) you learned that air is a shit conductor of heat ,in fact, thats how "insulation works. I digress though. The anodized interface needs help to overcome this and I think thermal interface grease will help a ton.
@surfnacho if you want to do a thermally optimized version of this at a later date and higher price, I would recommend polishing the interface surfaces and removing the anodized layer.
Source: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0254058413004409
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Funny I was about to ask if raw ones were available
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Im getting conflicting sources on wether or not anodizing is good for thermal sinks⌠brb
from what i understand, emissivity goes up, but thermal conductance goes down,
so raw on the side with psychical contact to the heat source, and anodized on the fin side is probably the best way to do it. also happens to be the easiest combination of the two.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/emissivity-coefficients-d_447.html
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/radiation-heat-emissivity-aluminum-d_433.html
8x to 10x emissivity for oxidized over raw,
10x reduction for thermal conductance for oxidized over raw:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-metals-d_858.html
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I guess the next thing to figure out just how hard is it for us is it to remove it from the inside for those that want to do it
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My guess is fine sandpaper, a wood block, and a few liters of elbow grease
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Oven cleaner. Very easy
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Does that depend on how deep the oxide layer is? Not sure but sanding half a mm can still be painful lol
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If the mounting plates arenât (re)made yet, maybe @surfnacho could save some $ by not having them anodized. That if its a fact that a raw surface transfers heat better than an anodized one.(which I have no idea, me dumdum)
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I do wanna reiterate that itâs still gonna help with heat. These optimizations are more for those pushing amp limits on speed demon builds or poorly geared mountain boards (me)
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Hey, thanks for your concern, however the ano cost is very little, does not make it or break it. The shipping cost is significantly higher than the cost to anodize. All of these places do black ano all day everyday, so it is very cheap.
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@Agressivstreetlamp and I were talking about doing a v2 with thermal dissipation optimization. We would be doing a lot of research and testing to figure out the most optimal design. Maybe we could even talk to thermal engineers etc. Robin found that onshape has some cool tools built in for sims and stuff, so definitely something I would be interested in doing in the future for a v2.
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200lb me in the hills, but wanna be
Lol
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