I finally replaced the motors on my daily-driver. These 6374s are smooth! According to Metr I am getting better effeciency than I was with an older pair of FS 6354s and these feel more powerful too.
6 Likes
Super clean daily driver 
1 Like
Uuuh… anyone had problems making sensors work with these motors?
Temperature is working but i get bad results doing the wizard and the separate foc hall sensor detection as well
Everything good so far roughly 100 miles in
2 Likes
The first thing I do when I get a new motor is to cut off the sensor cables, so I can’t help you there.
I know the hall sensor pcb got some conformal coating on it and the sensorwires are epoxyed down to the stator and strain relieved onto the phasewires.
The the wires are also glued onto the correct sized JST connector.
But in the end vibrations, road dust and salty roadwater usually kills it for me no matter what really. That’s why I never bother with hallsensors.
I know bindings and AT you pretty much have to have hallsensors but I don’t dip my toes into that pond.
They also decided to cheap out and use the pvc wrapped sensors cables they are far from the worst kind but they are definitely not silicone wires.
1 Like
Well… i kind of got used to the starting torque of sensors, and hfi just struggles until it starts cogging in smart reverse.
One good thing is that hfi is definetly stronger torque on these compared to 6355, but still, sensored goodies 
How do you start your board?
Push start every time
3 Likes
The antispark was just the beginning…
in time…
2 Likes
The antisparks with your blessing hand put on them definetly need a status led on the actual pcb to show when they are on. A defective button connector and all it takes is one spark to never turn off. (Also some adjustable auto turn off? Hopefully?)
They do work perfectly when used as intended though!
1 Like
I’ll see if we can make future iterations have an led powered directly by the output to indicate it is LIVE.
For the time being, you should be able to wire an LED and 22k ohm resistor in series with each other across the output.
4 Likes
What would it look like when the AS shits the bed? Mine has been working fine until today. It switched off in the middle of a ride. The ESC recorded overvoltage (44.5V, I’m on 10s) and then went down to 5V. I can disconnect the battery and reconnect and it will switch on the ESC, it even says I’m on the right voltage, but as soon as I hit the throttle, it will turn off. The blue light in the switch will stay on but the ESC has no power (well, yeah, 5V).
@Gamer43 will know more but typically i think a voltage spike like that is the esc, not aure that the switch has capacitance to spike up like that
The overvoltage happened only the first time during the ride. I’ve tried disconnecting and reconnecting and it will sometimes give an error the moment the voltage drops and the ESC switches off. The faults were thrown in the Metr log. Not hitting the throttle and just reconnecting everything, it all works fine. It connects to VESC Tool as well and the ESC only shuts down 5-10 seconds after hitting the throttle. Not using the AS seems to work so I’m guessing the ESC is fine.
Send me the metr log. How long into the ride did this happen?
Overvoltage shouldnt happpen because the MOSFETs only block unidirectionally, regen current will rectify through the diodes.
What you’re describing sounds like the gate driver blew up and one of the MOSFETs became a high resistance short, so it isnt turning on properly.
4 Likes
PM with log sent. I have another enhanced AS and will try that one. I was suspecting the BMS as well, but that doesn’t make sense since all cells seem to be fine and well-balanced.
1 Like
The battery was fully charged, so taking a regen current caused them to exceed the overcharge voltage.
3 Likes
Looks like a case where a brake chopper would have saved the day!
Nah, Not even EV’s bother with that, they just undercharge to 90% or resort to mechanical brakes.
1 Like
It looks like it’s the BMS that’s shot, not the AS. Big thanks to @Gamer43 for helping me out via PM!
I’ve hooked up a second AS, brand new, the one from this group buy, just opened the package and soldered bullets to it. Same problem. Hooked everything up to an old evolve battery without the BMS and everything works fine.
What is really weird, is that it also works when no AS is connected. For some reason, since the overvoltage, the BMS cuts off power when the AS is sitting between it and the ESC.
I’m clueless here as to why this is happening…
2 Likes