Classic Kicker | 36" Kebbek Top Mount | eCaliber II | 2x Maytech 6355 170kv | Boardnamics + 15mm drive@40T/18T | 12s3p 21700 40t | Unity?

This build is my first and has been a great little project thus far…

Goal: General road ready daily commuter with enough torque for the hills around Auckland, NZ.

Additional goals of reapplying my electronics engineering skills from my apprenticeship in the 90s, using CAD for mechanical design, and 3D printing.

I’m in no rush to complete but I hope to be finished by December, just in time for Summer!

and thanks to @mishrasubhransu in inviting me to post in this forum!

Drive: 2x Sealed Maytech 6355 170 kv on 15mm Belts with 40t /18t gearing. Wheels (ABEC11) are coupled via DIY 3D printed part with attached Aluminium 40t pulley from Aliexpress.

Acquired Items:

  • DieBieMS for balance charging and battery management

To Be Acquired:

  • 36 x Samsung 40t 21700 batteries
  • Battery building parts, bus strips, cabling and everything else
  • Battery Charger
  • Spot Welder (TBD… either a kWeld or Arduino)
  • ESC - Current choice is Unity… but might change if it’s not available
  • Metr Pro
  • Undetermined Controller for piloting the thing…

Ongoing Investigations:

  • Currently researching Nickel plated copper strips for bus connections for the battery build… each 40t battery is capable of 25 amps continous which in 3P is some serious amperage (75 amps) so I’m doing some serious research into this
  • Innovative battery mounting system that allows for indiviual cells to be swapped out and mechanically secures the battery independant of the spot welded contacts
  • Alternatives to the Focbox Unity? what’s with the enertion team?
  • Hand controller… no idea on this… happy to see what the community comes out with over the next few months
  • Integrated Head and tail light system and high amperage 50/12v DC-DC convertor
  • Harder truck bushings or a stiffer setup that give reasonable control for my weight (100kg fully loaded)

There’s loads of other details not listed above… like how to mount the screen that comes with the DieBieMS and what exactly I have planned for the integrated battery mount system and enclosure, but I’ll update here as I go forward.

Here’s some of the prior work in getting the board digitised via photogrammetry… I’ll probably redo this step to get a more accurate representation of the board in the near furture…


Nice work so far, Jamie. Can you give us a bit more details about your photogrammetry workflow. Also the grid that you got is very structured, how did you set that up?

Sure bro… This capture attempt was a rough one and while the results are ok there’s a better workflow I’d like to follow for my next attempt to increase accuracy in the calculated mesh.

Since the boards surface is so smooth and has a sheen (specular highlights) I will be following a similar workflow as to this on over on

Additionally choose a day to do the photography that is heavily overcast so the Suns light is diffused sufficiently to eliminate shadowing and specularity as much as possible as it will interfere with the calculated mesh.

Make sure that you setup your camera with fixed settings (ISO/speed/etc) so that all the photos are capture using the same parameters.

I’ve used a open source photogrammetry sofware called Meshroom, so far I’m using standard settings.

This will generate a mesh that needs to be taken into another peice of software to help clean up and reduce and simplify the overall geometry…

In this case I’m using a neat open source tool called Instant Meshes, which allows you to quickly rebuild the surface and also determine topology with defined paths.

You might/probably will need to repair the output from Meshroom however before using Instant Meshes to take care of any degenerate geometrys and holes… You can use something like Mesh Lab or your fav 3D software to achieve this…

My workflow from here it to take it into 3dsMax ( you can use other software but I’ll explain below why 3dsMax ) and from the poly edges extract splines or curves… from this you can create a parametric surface that is smooth and not defined by vertices as per the orginal capture…

Now this is where my workflow get experimental and is why I’m using 3dsMax… I use Inventor Pro for all part design… and I want to take the splines generated in 3dsmax into this application and will probably do it via a DWG export (CAD format)… I haven’t actually tried this yet… but its my intention to design the battery/electronics frame to conform with the underside of the board…

So far what i have is good enough to get a rough idea of clashes in the layout of the different parts and components… but I’ll be redoing the scan and then following the forementioned workflow to get high quality parts designed and then printed…


This is awesome. I had gotten to the meshroom step before with default settings and got a coarse mesh. I still needed to figure out fitting a smoother mesh and scaling. I’ll follow your steps and see where it leads. Thanks a lot.


Yup… The trick is to rebuild the mesh topology into something more structured… Instant Meshes is good for that…

1 Like

Mooch recommended 25a on the 40t, just wanted to put that out there.

1 Like

I’m facing a bit of decision around the ESC architecture… I’d originally though a Unity would be the go… But there are lots of other options I could go with…

For example @shaman is bringing a couple options to market…

Question is if I go for a dual setup I’ll have to redesign the battery bay… What are everyone’s thoughts on a dual vesc vs two single vesc’s?

Not everyone likes dual and the main reason seems to be that if one is destroyed, for some reason, then at least you have the other. I personally will go for dual flipsky ESC 6.6(without switch) $229 because of the mini size. Basically gives me more space for battery. I haven’t yet destroyed an ESC(even flipsky 6.6 single) and so not too worried about it.

1 Like

Made some more purchases… got a DPS-800GB server PSU for a furture kWeld buy… also some Nickel rods to experiment with nickel plated copper strips for my battery build… doing this for science…

looking at buying this power module 36-72V to Vout 12V@18A for powering lights, which is pretty good bang for buck, and FYI for those in the hunt for a high amperage DC/DC stepdown converter there is this Delta 500 watt step DC/DC for under $10 for something like 9.8 volts out at 55 amps… massive… and probably massive heat… but hey, how about them amps!

Love that deck had it for years with now 50 holes still going strong. Like the profile and the concave is just perfect.

Cool! Yeah I haven’t ridden this board for obvious reasons. Picked it up for its kicktail and wheel Wells… Conforming a battery stack is going to be interesting However…

The KT could be a bit bigger but i got use to it. u gonna like it i’m shure

1 Like