What had been my daily ride for almost the last year had finally begun to die. The TB 6355 motors had each been through set screw repairs on the motor shafts, had been banged against the ground dozens of times, and had hundreds of miles on them. This board has been running non-stop since I finished it at the beginning of March and I haven’t turned a bolt or opened the enclosure since. The only thing that happened was I threw some beat-up old Abec 107s on it.
The motor cans wobbled like crazy as they were bent out of round, the cans constantly made noise as they scraped against the mounting plates and they’ve been riding like that for months. Last week, I started getting acceleration dropouts and throttle surging as I believe the motors were losing sensor position. This of course happened just as I saw a big setback with the bustin sportster build I’m working on.
I had some 6355 TB motors that were near new but had cut shafts for gears drives I had gotten with them from @b264. The drives had broken teeth on the wheel pulleys but had very little miles on them. Thank you to @3DServisas who after several requests and some digging around, stumbled upon an old set of gears for this drive. This drive is an older prototype, not a production model. It has 12/36 and 13/36 gearing and the only problem with it is there’s currently no Vgroove seal to keep debris out of the case - which I need to track down still. Only adaptors I have at the moment are ABEC for it.
Big should out to @ThermalChild who gave me his old 36 evo deck. This deck was involved in a bit of a car altercation at a DC event a while back. Its seen lots of use, has a big chunk out of the corner of the nose but has no major structural damage. eboosted enclosure underneath.
Landyachtz 36 Evo
Flipsky 6.6 dual plus, VX1
45 front baseplate and 50 rear baseplate gives me effective angles of around 52 front 42 rear according to my angle measuring device. I believe the evo is +/- 8 degrees
BN184 hangers, fixed axles.
3DS old proto gear drives, 13/36 ratio
120mm cloud wheels
Here’s some setup and layout pics before cleaning up the deck to figure out where everything will go.
The 107s had to go, I knew that. But they also weren’t providing a ton of clearance for this drive. I was stuck with 10S for now and I only have ABEC adapters for these. A local buddy had some 120mm cloud wheels he loaned to me to give a try. I know all about the cloud wheel hub concerns and will monitor them closely. ABEC limits my options here, and I’m trying to use mostly parts I have lying around rather than ordering more stuff. If the TB130s come out, maybe ill track down some kegel adaptors - yes they seem to share the same bolt pattern as the HTD5M pulleys
Also got some Duplicolor truck bed coating to re-spray the enclosure with. I was planning to use this on the bustin enclosure as well and I’m very very happy with the results. More pics on this in the next few days when I throw everything together
I dove into this with the intention of just transferring things from my current deck over, setting up the gear drive and giving the deck a clean up.
I stripped all of the adhesive from the deck and gave it a quick sand to strip the old paint, which was now pink after stripping the grip tape and the old adhesive underneath. I filled the old holes, removed the through deck nuts and replaced with EZ look inserts. I filled the front corner that was chipped with epoxy and sawdust particles mixed into a sandable filler.
I had just received some new maple from Roarockit for the bustin. So I took a core sheet and laminated the top of the deck to cover up the old holes from the enclosure and the old original truck mounting holes. Additionally, during setup I made enough clearance for the gear drives to be mounted forward and not have to use a lot of risers by stretching the mounting positions of each truck by whatever the difference between new/old school mount pattern is, about 1/4 inch. This stretched the wheelbase a bit, but structurally seems solid. Heres the new laminated veneer on top
Next up, I selected a color. I decided to go with blue, found an exterior “stain” on amazon
This behaves less like a stain and more like a paint. I found the best way to use it was to brush all over with a wide foam brush and then brush it lightly to keep leveling it as it dried over 10-15 mins. Wiping off with a towel like stain doesn’t really work with this. Fortunately, it accepted an enamel clear coat with no issues. This stain/sealer does provide weather protection as well.
This is outside on a partly cloudy day with no filters or increase in saturation. This is after a matte clear coat finish. The color is not this rich inside, but it still looks really good. Im sure an epoxy layer or gloss clear coat would really make these colors pop.
Just got a 1500 - 2000 - 3000 grit sanding and looking good
Should have a top speed around 32 mph. Im going to do split grip tape on top. Almost done
One last update: opened up the heat shrink on the battery because the top mounted BMS isn’t gonna for this enclosure. The deck/enclosure has a 5+mm gap with the deck resting on the BMS.
Gonna have to either move this BMS and extend the leads or just wire in a new one. I have two 10S BMSs, a Daly red one and an LLT BT 30A one. The 30A LLT is huge and I’ve got no use for it, since it fits I may shove it in here.
It’ll be quicker to wire a new one then extend all the wires.
This pack lost a P group a while back and got a replacement. I think this is originally a tiller built pack and it had a series connection fall off. I reworded most of the connections before buttoning it back up and spent a lot of time taping and reinforcing it.
I hate to change something that’s not broken, but I’ll probably throw the LLT BMS in it since the 30 amp versions are bigger and likely won’t find a home in any of my boards soon.
Checked the P group voltages. Max delta is 0.011 V which is great. Well balanced still.
I popped off the BMS and will come back to this tomorrow. The Daly BMS shares the same connector as the original. So I can mount the original in the enclosure with the Daly wiring to save time and trash the Daly, I can use the Daly, or I can just use the LLT – likely going to just put the LLT in. Fucker is huge but I like to be able to monitor
Nice to see it well balanced. Wish I had 36 extra P42A cells lying around