Before i knew battery building i bought 2 10s5p packs one was under mounted… When I wanted more range i top mounted a second battery… When the first was tapped… I unplugged the loop key on battery #1 and plugged battery #2 into the board with a second XT90s through a connection in the enclosure… Not the loop key xt90s a seperate one that was also plugged exactly opposite of the loop key so you couldn’t plug it into the loop key…
The only NOT fool-proof part was the loop key had to be pulled before the second battery was plugged in…
Like magic i had 10s10p battery broken into 2 pieces…
Good luck
Literally would never do that lol. I will be checking out that battery building thread if I end up building one. But right now I’m broke so that’s gonna be the future!
Before you start building a battery, how much do you know about them, and electricity in general? I have been an electrician for over 10 years and recently became an EE, and am still terrified and am very careful when I build packs. Be extremely careful handling cells. Also, if you go the used route at least get all the same cells. I have done this before and it’s worked out really well for me.
You never mentioned enclosure, so…
This is your best bet unless you can build your own (you shouldn’t, it will end up costing you more even if you succeed).
You’ll have to wire them up and will need to add a bms/charge port, which will cost a little, but you can still benefit from the skills you have.
The metroboard packs come w/ the work done for you, but less power for the $$.
I for what ever reason thought that lipos were not as good of a choice for esk8, I dont have any statements as to why I just remember reading things saying the were not as good as li-ion
There is a calc in the header that will help you calc range. Look around for ppls real world wh/mi to get that accurate to your setup.
Lipos are a fine choice for esk8. There are trade offs, high power density combined with a softer casing means pouches can be more volatile than metal cells and need more protection/compression. Higher discharge also means lower cycle life, so long term, lipos can be more expensive than liions or another high cycle chem.
The calculator is pretty hard to use for a noob unless I have the correct numbers Fed to me. Would I just times all the numbers it asks for times how ever many of the batteries I would be getting?
For the battery section, input your number of series and parallel groups on top.
The cells capacity comes from its chemistry. If you’re using 30q cells, they’re 3Ah. 25r are 2.5 Ah, other cells are other capacities. They value is just for one cell.
Same situation for the discharges. Google your battery cell, mooch does great ratings on batteries that are more accurate than spec sheets.
Your motor kv is whatever motors you choose.
Poles is usually 14.
Efficiency leave alone too.
Wheel size is your wheel diameter.
Motor pulley and wheel pulley are if you’re using gears or pulleys. If it’s direct drive or hub, make them both 1.
Efficiency is confusing too because every setup is different. I pull 30wh/mi on my mountainboard with 8" wheels but around 15-20 on my 6" pneumatic wheels. Urethane will give you even better efficiency. Check out a similar build to yours for some relative efficiencies.
I understand most of it, didnt understand the cell capacity discharge (but most sites will tell you that so I could work around not knowing) poles, efficiency, and energy use, everything else I understand haha
hey there, so using 4 500mAh 6s lipos to make a 12s, what did I do wrong here in the calculations because it says 49 miles and im sure thats not right haha, perhaps the cell capacity? They are 5000mAh so thats 5Ah right?
