I disagree with putting the link towards the middle of the board as a lot of decks have an open cutout. Having the link at the front would help strengthen the open cutout.
If that is your intention, get the O-style version, it is stronger anyways.
But for the U-style version it has to be in the mid not to stick out on boards like the bustin sportster.
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Seems like you are designing something that is already available…
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This latter one is not available yet. Would you like to design one, too?
For the regular U and O Brackets, yes, you have them, and i will order a set with my next order of bushings. But what dickyho is designing appears like the same product and works the same, but is not.
It will be a much heavier, less beautiful budget option for people who are currently not using brackets because their deck is not worth investing $25 extra.
These are two different products and markets.
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It is hard to tell what you are going for here, what are the key points of what is needed compared to what is available. I am sorry I do not have time today to try and figure out what is important here
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Strikes me you are just moving the mounting point closer to the ends of the board to make clearance for pneumatic so what is the issues with just drilling additional mount holes? Are you hoping for additional reinforcement of the deck with the plate extension?
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The main issue is: Usually you will move it just so much that the rear holes are where the deck’s cutout is wider. Speak: there is no board to drill into. So you need a plate. And also reinforcement to bring the load further back to the middle.
Or, on a deck like the Bustin Sportster, the outermost hole will be in thin air if you move it out.
Edit: to clarify: these brackets are not just to protect a board, but to modify it in a way it was not intended to be set up. This is often necessary to get clearance for wheels or motors on a drop (through) deck.
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looks like need 7750 aluminum for this braket, I think maybe 12mm thick. can do that, kind of expensive.
by the way, can it be with laser cut stainless steel? even with 12mm thick, laser cut still much cheaper. the disadvantage is it heavier than aluminum.
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For the Normal U- and O- style brackets, your usual 3mm laser cut steel is perfect. Not to compete with Riptides nice alloy brackets.
For the extension bracket, I think it should be Alloy, particularly if it needs to be so thick.
That will be used on nicer builds where weights matters.
A little less should be fine though? Maybe 8mm?
ok for 3mm normal brakets.
8mm extension bracket would be kind of risk, because if it bend, I need to resend better one to user or refund they. how thick are those existing one on the market?
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Good point.
Too thick might cause issues with the hangar, though.
There are none on the market AFAIK.
How thick and which material was yours @eBoosted?
Here’s an Idea to make thin but strong brackets:
Use a strong alloy, 6mm to 8mm.
Supply extension-washers to put between the bracket and the truck (screw going through them) on the places where there is no board between truck baseplate and bracket. Like this, the bracket becomes stabilized by the truck baseplate.
got it. just like add ribs on the braket!
I wouldn’t add it to the bracket. Different boards have different setups.
What I meant was just adding 4pcs of something like this (Separately):
https://www.widgetco.com/1-4-x-5-8-inch-Aluminum-Spacers.jpg
Different decks might have different thicknesses, but you can just make the buyer choose from different commodity sizes.
For this bracket, I think it is totally ok to cost 4x more than your normal ones. Better have good quality strong and light materials.
got what you mean, thanks! with 7750 aluminum, will more than 4X. the best material for this is titanium, I think I will find factory to quote for it. by the way, what about Carbon fiber?
I think anything below $40 shipped is reasonable if it is a rock solid solution.
Materials are not my domain. Maybe someone else on this forum could answer this question?
@moon
@Boardnamics
I am realizing that there should be two versions of this bracket:
A) one to just move the truck out as far as possible, but not beyond the deck end. This would only have to carry the part where there the deck cutout is wider. It would still have board contact on both sides. Thus, just some 4mm alloy (with a spacer) should be just fine. This could help to keep the cost down to ~$25 shipped.
B) one to move the truck beyond the end of the board (e.g. on a Bustin Sportster). This has to be much tougher as it effectively extends the board.
Here some stronger materials might be favorable.
I think this would be fine to cost ~$50 shipped.