Charger for 10s4p

Anyone know of a good charger to get for a 10s4p battery pack? Doesnt matter if its a fast charger or slow charger

what cell u have, what bms u have, what charge port u have, where r u from

nevermind, just get a meepo charger: Electric Skateboard Battery Charger – Meepo Board

I got one for sale, for cheap.

LGM26 cells (cant get a hold of any better ones), daly bms 36v 40a discharge 20a charge, xt30 connector, and ohio lol

Get anything you can find that will charge 36v. aliexpress will be your best bet, you can get one for 15$ with the right connectors. I recommend getting one with a fan, they last much longer and won’t get on fire.

42v

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:face_with_raised_eyebrow::face_with_raised_eyebrow::face_with_raised_eyebrow:

Get a 10s 42v charger…

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They sell them as 36v chargers as they are nominal values but yes sorry i forget that not everyone knows. 36v charger - Buy 36v charger with free shipping on AliExpress

And FYI i been using Xinmore and YZpower for years and they are used everyday for my bike builds and they are reliable. However do not believe any rating on aliexpress. all 2a will give you 0.9a and even my fastest 5a xinmore charger i got only does 4a. the 10$ WILL catch on fire. (had 2 burn out).

If you can wait for AliExpress shipping, go look at the YZPower store and choose a 10S 42V charger

Like this 4A one is solid

I have a few YZPower chargers and they’re quality

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Me, I think it important, to be able to switch to 80 or 90 percent charge. So, there are only a few.

36v 4amp Luna Mini Charger - Luna Cycle
I have this in a 48 volt for ebike. REal fan. Solid. Durable.

Agreed on that it’s a nice feature to be able to charge to less than 100%. But for less money and more control you can get a smart BMS (LLT w/ Bluetooth & app) & dumb charger, than a smart charger.

Luna’s as a nice charger, but charging at 80% will give you about 40% less ride and a lot less power, unless that’s what you want… I use my board all the time so doesn’t make sense for me. There’s so many school of thoughts on the subject that i won’t go into it but i’ve been making battery packs for years now and would never charge 80 or 90% (it’s not a car pack…). However, i would love one that would charge to nominal value (50%) and full so when i don’t use it for a while it would put it at the right charge then fill it 100% when i want to use it.

I would do the same. Better BMS over charger anyday.

Ive got a daly 36v bms right now. 40a discharge and 20a charge

I don’t quite follow the math - why would 20% give you 40% less ride? Voltage drops very quickly from 100% to more or less steady state, where it drops relatively linearly until it falls off the cliff near the end. If anything the last 20% should give you way less than 20% since it’s nonlinear, not 40%.

Random representative lithium battery curve, but it holds mostly similar for the batteries we use
image

It doesn’t

This is wrong

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How?

40% is just a number, it depends on too much variables and would be more or less 34%.

Cute little graph btw.

I don’t feel like doing the whole math for you but i’ll still try to explain because that graph doesn’t represent power that you need to move’‘Watts’’ and i think it’s data is way out on the 4.2v to 3.6v range. Just test the voltage on your boards after 10% of your usual riding range, it will not be 3.6 like stated in your graph. it will be more like 4v and over. Please test to see for yourself and come back with your graph.:slight_smile:

Normal operating li-ion battery voltage is 4.2v to 3v. Your ‘‘3v’’ is more or less 3.2v depending on voltage sag and if you have a bms for discharge or not (battery will cut out if it hits your desired level to protect batteries, It doesn’t apply if you bypass discharge because it will go a little lower).

So REAL life usage would be between 4.2 to 3.2v

If you charge to 80%, you would get what? 4v? 4v to 3.2v (usable range)
Let’s say you want to ride at 35mph the whole ride, you will need an equal amount of watts to keep that speed. Let’s say ‘‘42watts’’ gives you that speed, you’ll only need to draw 10a amps at the beginning (4.2v) (Voltage x amperage = Watts) and that amount of amps drawn will increase exponentially until you get to 13a at 3.2v. If your battery is not at 4.2v and is at 4, you will use 10.5a instead of 10a so 5% less right of the bat. Your graph shows a steady amount of amps, that’s not reality (unless you have a slow board and floor it the whole way).

Get a good active balancing bms that supports real output (160-200a draw) with bluetooth and monitor your battery, you’ll see what i’m talking about.

Then for fun like me, test with a bunch of other factors (temps, connections, layout, cells used etc) then comment on your findings.