Sure you could. Just build lots of good batteries.
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Alrighty I’ll try in a year or w/e. Only got 2 packs under my belt so far working on #3
I wasn’t in it, then I built a bunch of batteries, then I got invited
Yeah but you’re cool and socially normal, I have to try twice as hard and mess up half as often to join social groups like normal people.
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Lol if you think I’m socially normal…
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One or back-to-back MOSFETs with a specialized controller (though a general purpose MCU and firmware can be used) that compares voltages on both sides of the MOSFET and only turns on the MOSFET if the voltages on the two sides of the MOSFET are within a certain range.
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I guess that’s why this is only rated for 30 amps, these must be 30 amp MOSFETs.
An inductor would do the same thing with less parts but it would have to be massive I guess
They are not that hard to build in general, specialized controllers to do this type of thing already exist. The little things like handling regen, LEDs, and other stuff can make it a lot more complex circuit.
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An inductor? In series with the output of the external pack?
That would always allow current to flow, no matter what the voltage difference was between the packs. An inductor can’t stop current flow on demand.
Wouldn’t it reduce the current ? I could be wrong I haven’t touched my EM textbook in a while haha
Unfortunately not. Even if it could then it would do that all the time, robbing you of all that power. There’s no way to adjust it.
Inductors can slow down a change in voltage per unit time though. That can help round off nanosecond or microsecond voltage spikes, changing a high short spike into a longer lower voltage spike.
Inductors, like any other component, do have some resistance and that would cause a voltage drop that would affect the current flow…typically only just a little bit to prevent heating and power losses.
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Ah I see, I understood this part but didn’t understand the scale lol I really should have paid more attention during the induction section in class
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It’s not really a social group. If I weren’t such a big deal (lulz #internet), I’d have been kicked to the curb long ago for being a bitchy, sour-pussed prick every other day. We’ve all got stuff to work on.
Aaaaanyway, the GT40’s PMS/BMS was designed by the two guys who made the whole thing. Far as I know, they kind of spent several months working on and testing ONLY that product to work in that mod. Which is really cool, because it does seem to actually work very well.
It’s waaayyy above my understanding, since I’m not educated in any technical field. So this ends my relatively useless contribution to this thread.
Stay thirsty, my friends. Wait…Float on, my friends? No that’s TFL…
Eh. Don’t fall. There ya go.
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I returned from sea to find your ride and charge had expired. it’s last words were “17.4v”.
Likely Cause of death, smart switch failed on, resulting in slow drain by adjacent buck-converters and watt meter.
We can make arrangements to return the remains to Portland when you are done grieving.
lol, jkjk, I opened it up to steal a few cells to mutilate with the new kweld, then I’m going to bestbuy to recycle a few at a time, Shawshank Redemption style.
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Honestly I’m amazed it lasted that long.
The handoff was mid 2019 right?
Bring it to CarvePDX?
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Yeah, Colorado. Precovid.
Well, 10 cells technically weren’t dead. All at 3.2v. I’ll make a 10s1p usb charger for shits and gigs. A “pocket bomb” if you will.
Lewis Rossman happened to be playing in the background while I opened it. They briefly mentioned the wild diy renegades who ride and charge.
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