Well… that makes me nervous… would it be best to connect the charging ports in parallel?
@Jacobee They were 10s2p packs Meepo-style with BMSs in each. I supplied charge current to each BMS through a massive parallel adapter so I could use one charger for everything. 10s12p and it worked quite well.
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I did something like that time ago. I used to charge both packs individually. I never had problems at all.
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What about 2 packs in series?
I did that too. No problems.
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I mean if you charge them together, like 2 10s packs with 2 10s bmses charging at 20s voltage
I did this on my board. You can check out the process here ( Evolve GTX 2nd battery in parallel ). I have sense removed all evolve electronics and am running a unity.
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2 years ago I did the same thing with the crappy 10s2p samsung 22p batteries.
I definitely recommend wiring the charge port in parallel. The connector is a JST-RCY.
I have a similar setup with 2 meepo batteries and 5 one wheel style batteries for a 10s14p set up everything is connected in parralel and I use one of the meepo battery charge ports, the entire battery charges fine with a 5amp charger. Because everything is connected in parralel voltage remains the same in the entire circuit. Does not matter if you connect 2 or 3 or 5 ports in parallel. Everything will charge at the same rate. I guess one advantage would be less heating, but you should have any heating at 5 amps charge rate
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jeez.
do I go a step further and throw my Crappy diyeboards battery in the mix.
Make it a 10S9P?
making it 3 packs, and one of them being different really fucks with my OCD…
http://www.diyeboard.com/10s5p-18650-lithium-battery-pack-36v-10ah-360wh-p-460.html
That’s kind of what my build is. I have my 5 one wheel style packs top mounted in a box and the 2 meepo packs bottom mounted underneath on my abortion of a board, but it’s got great power and super good range!
I may very well do that down the line. for simplicity and weight sake for now I am going to go ahead wiht the 2 10s2P packs hoping that the 10S4P 40T will give me at least 10 miles of riding. I have only been getting 13-14 miles with my set ups that I have with 10s6P 30Q and pneumatics , one Six Shooters and one with the TB 160s…
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Should be able to get 10 miles, my 12s4p with the same set up get around 15
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I would keep the packs the same for definite. Don’t use the diye pack at all.
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I would open those packs personally and bypass the bmses for charge only and parallel wire the packs to one charge port after u charge both packs to full charge. Im currently running a 10s4p 30q parallel set using the revel kit batteries since its performance was shit. Works great and now i have way more range using the same packs and less dead weight on my board now that its a diy and not a prebuilt bolt on with low amp discharge preset to my motors.
I can see a few potenchal issues by doing this
1 if the charge ports are seprat you charge the other pack thro the output main joins bypass the BMS protections thro the main discharge joint
2nd If you link the charge ports you can end up with current passing thro the charge ports in to the other pack every time you draw a load of the packs don’t have identical internal resistance
3rd say pack 1 has a P group at 4.2 rest at 3.7
Pack 2 had all its p groups at 3.8
Pack 1 will shut down the charge but pack 2 will keep charging with it back feeding donwn the load joint over charging the p group in pack 1
Basicly you defeat the point of having a BMS
It will work but so dose useing li-ion with out a BMS. The question to ask your self is it safe?
yeah, lot’s of work opening packs… and moving shit around…not a fan…
the parallel set worked pretty well for me for a long time…
i also make a parallel connector for the charging ports, so i just charged them both at the same time with one charger.
really, it was very easy and simple solution without messing with the pack.
now i have the two little packs in two separate little builds.
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if u don’t replace the esc with something better, the revel kit esc won’t pull more amps than what it is programmed to do, same goes for motor amps. what u did effectively only add to the range of the kit, with a heavier board as a trade off. for me, i would rather have the second battery in my backpack, and swap it, so the board is as light as possible.
@frame.b022 i went full diy as in i dont use hobbywing no more. the only components i kept from the revel kit was the packs and motors for now everything else was changed.
That having multiple batteries didnt do dick for me range wise at all after spending $1600 to $1800 on 4wd kit with 4 batteries and could barely do 15miles after draining all 4 packs wasnt a fun experience imo.
And 4wd revel kit vs my current diy it was way heavier since its enclosures was made with alot of metal and motor barely had any power to push that weight, so hence the dead weight that i mentioned before. Not to mention the all the extra chargers and stuff i had to carry in my bag just to ride around with it.