No short.
Yea. The joints are solid and not arcing. The previous owner had a hot iron and a lot of solder.
Are the points labeled correctly?
Also, he did give me a disclaimer on one of your circles … I’ll can clean them up but hate to meddle with it working.
If you don’t have a soldering iron to solder them on properly, at the very least trim the frayed wire end so it doesn’t hit something and short
I have a soldering iron and can deal with that. Anyhow. Any idea about the labeling?
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Awesome, thanks! Last question before I connect these two wires. Just want to confirm. To bypass, I connect the P- and the B-
The P- will still end up going to the XT60 and the B- will still go to the negative wire on my first battery in the series?
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Thanks btw
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Sorry. I’m a lifelong noob. Thanks for the effort, but r u you telling me to make a loop key?
Is it feasible to just connect the two wires from the pic for bypassing discharge?
You don’t have to, there are many circuits in that thread if you look. That’s only one circuit that demonstrates a hybrid (bypass & discharge) configuration. I use that circuit or derivatives of it frequently.
Loopkeys are never a bad idea though, even if you have electronic switching.
Leave P- on the bms completely free of anything. Definitely do NOT connect B- and P-.
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Put a fuse on the charge port though
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Yeah, that’s wired for discharge.
So … what’s the easiest way to bypass? Also, what amp fuse on the charging port (neg. or pos. wire).
Hoping that bypassing the bms discharge will fix the ‘going Superman’ and allow my shoulder to heal.
Twice your maximum charge current is a good one. Either wire, near the charge port.
Cool. I have a 6amp charger currently but really considering stepping down to a 2 or 3 amp to help keep the cells balanced.
Glyphiks. So. According to your pic. Desolder the P- and leave it bare, right?
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Correct