Don’t think you should worry about that, I test rode their boards, there was quite a bit of torque for a hub motor board.
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I really hope so dude
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Send them by pm to me. Ill upload them.
Alternatively @BillGordon could bump
I love seeing how commercial guys do Eskate guts.
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Believe me this thing is not slow - speed wobbles may get to ya before anything else… something i’m trying to solve
You broke the seals?
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Thanks for notice. Our new friend has been bumped. Welcome, Dave!
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Start with the basics,
Look for loose fitment in the bushing and pivot cups.
Quality bushings, double barrel on rear.
30-45* baseplate If things don’t improve in the rear.
Also, 90mm firm hub wheels and speeds exceeding 25mph may be slightly more prone to this as the firm hubs react to road imperfections more.
As far as performance, if you live in an area with decent roads, you’ll be fine. There are of course faster boards, but take the time to learn and enjoy it. My average speed is around 15-17mph most of the time. 30 is fast
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I agree with the last poster ,stick with the stick set up and play with the bushings ,bend your knees at higher speeds to lower your centre of gravity it might help you . But the board it’s self is fine at high speeds and that drop through design is great .
For me from a performance expectation I just hope it can deliver the stats or come close to what they advertise . But generally I would ride at around 15-18 mph and occasionally ride at 25+ where conditions permit . So hopefully it should meet my expectations 
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Ref what you think is glue is actually silicon which is my only gripe as I feel a nice gasket should of been used on a £900 board rather than DIY clear silicone which is very amateur and for the cost of a reusable gasket quite disappointing in my opinion .
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could you share the images of the internals or let me know how you pried open past the silicone seals? brute force?
I’ve taken the board to 23mph - and the wobbles begin from 19mph onwards at least on mine.
I haven’t removed my enclosure but dave on here has . He’s sending pics to another member to share on here . If your getting wobbles tighten your trucks until you feel solid then as you get more confidant you will find you can loosen them off and your skill/balance will compensate . I ride with pretty loose trucks and don’t suffer wobble but I’ve been riding for over 40 years 
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If anyone finds anymore reviews on the bustin V2 boards please share or link in
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It seems after my alert with image comparisons on the 100mm dia hub wheel replacements and 90mm dia sent to the Bustin team, they’ve updated their website portion selling the 100mm hub wheels that they only work with the Sportster-X model and not my model. Not sure why there’s a difference in the hub-motor design anyway. So that’s good for you! I wonder how I can solve my issue, or is it forever a lost cause.
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That sucks ,all I know is that the X hubs are wider as if u look at the hubs on the x they protrude beyond the back of the wheel sleeve where as the S model sits flush
I have a bustin maestro that I’m building on, and I’ve noticed that the angles dropped through lend themselves to a squirrely ride at top speed. More suitable for slalom, not high speeding. Finding the right angles is pretty key to getting stability at high speed. I would try dewedging the rear 10-20 degrees and top mounting and seeing how that feels.
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I re-read your post, and you mentioned Batch 1, so it could be V2, batch 1. so I think this maybe the same board we’re talking about as I’m V2, batch 3. If that’s the case, then - dang! I’ve noticed an extremely hot enclosure at the rear end after climbing up and braking down some hills for about 1km. Getting me worried. The hub motors themselves seem only warm to the touch.
When you say it draws at max more than 60A with no temp sensor, that may mean an overheating problem - meaning though there’s torque (it’s really powerful as a hub motor), but may end up overheating and catching on fire? Scary thought!
Perhaps that’s the sole reason for range degradation? over-heated batteries?
With such a sealed in (but beautiful) enclosure, I’m sure the ESC would be affected by heat as well. I’m just wondering why the heat was all concentrated on one end of the enclosure though.
Thanks for sharing, it would be helpful if you had some photos of the opened enclosure.
definitely a good carver board as well as the sportster
if the esc has cutoffs, board will just turn off before it/when it overheats to save itself probably, if just one end then it just may be the esc since it is smaller, if it were the battery it would probably be throughout the bottom/spread heat throughout itself maybe?
To those of you in the know about DIY self builds etc ,of at some point I find my Sportster V2 X has failing hardware what sort of cost am I looking at to build a solid setup using the shell but changing the esc etc . Hopfully this won’t happen anytime soon but good to know when the time comes ,or poss could I purchase another e board and transfer the internals ?
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Honestly, don’t worry about it. Just ride it till the day comes. And then fix it with DIY components. It’s a great deck and beautiful enclosure. The hubs seem solid too.
The weak point seems to be the battery.
Replacing it with a better one will cost you about $150-$250.
Replacing the ESC with a VESC will cost about $100-$150.
The day it dies will be a jouyful one: you’ll get to upgrade it with better components for $250-$400 and have a brand new board again.
Merry Christmas!
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