Might be off topic, but do you recommend using any lubricants to install bushings and pivot cups? Like white lithium grease, paraffin wax etc.
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For what purpose?
I would probably stay away from lithium because dust will stick to it and it will look gross, but parafin can be used to prevent some squeaking issues
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Buy RipTide bushings, they are impregnated with a wax type lubricant…none better.
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If anything, use silicone grease, it will not break down the urethane.
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That ingredient is exclusive to our WFB compound of urethane
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Is this normal? Running Psychotillers TKPs.
The bushing seat is a little sharp or if I’m over tightening it. Im about 180lbs and I do like a little bit of carve.
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This is not good.
At least some finishing passes or a tumbling machine should have been used.
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It looks like it wasnt finished properly, or they forgot to do the finishing touches.
It should have been smooth down
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I am assuming those are Abec 11 lime 80a bushings? No that is not normal. The bushing seat of the truck is definitely too sharp and cutting into the bushing. Just break the edge of the seat with a cloth backed (so you don’t cut yourself) 80 or so grit sandpaper. @ChrisChaput and @Psychotiller have hopefully seen this.
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Sliced bushings can be dangerous as once there is a cut, it can propagate a tear that can lead a bushing to split.
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I heard they’re working on getting those who bought the trucks revised replacements. How do we get on that list?
Best to ditch them or turn a radius on them then flip them in the bushing seat (fix the seat first though)
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Hi @RipTideSports, I’d appreciate some advice on bushing setup for my board. I have the EVO Falcon deck with 50 deg Caliber II trucks. This results in 65/35 split. I currently have the green (97.5a, I think) RipTide barrel/chubby bushings on both front and rear. The pivot cups are the stock ones. I weight ca 78 kg.
The board is extremely stable but the turn radius is bad. I have an ERPM limit set not to go above 40 km/h and so I think I could trade a bit of the stability for better turning. Could this be achieved with another bushings?
I also recently got the Hammock adjustable baseplates so I can change the truck angles.
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The two main issue with your setup is too hard of bushings for your weight and running a symmetrical bushing on an asymmetrical setup. For a start, try putting both Chubbys in back and the barrels in front and report back
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Brad. Need to go in a different direction please. What can I get to avoid wheel bite. Running 83s. Have 1/2 inch of risers. With these if I cut hard I was getting wheel bite pretty good. More so than the stock ones. Tightened way down and it did not resolve it. Thanks again for your time and advice.
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When you say 83’s do you mean 83a WFB bushings or 83mm wheels? What trucks are you running and what is in them?
Sorry. Should have clarified. This is from my previous question.
83mm wheels. The new bushings I put on were 93a krank. Caliber new standard.
The front was street cone and street far cone. And back street cone and street chubby.
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Thanks, is that scuff mark on wheel well where the wheel is rubbing and is the wheelbite occurring front, back or both? How does it handle, disregarding the wheel bite?
The scuff mark is old. Different wheels much larger. I can get wheel bite both back and front leaning aggressively. But the front hits really easily. I did not actually really go on a real long ride because I was sketched out because it was so easy to get the front to bite. It is a spud. So just 29 inches overall. It was really nimble with the stock bushings even when I had them super tight to avoid wheel bite… Sorry if we have a bit of a pickle here…
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No Pickle Rick, I will send you some things to try, what was your order #?