Building a wired remote control, “Tweaker” style

Hi everybody, I’m building a wired remote control to completely cut out external signal interference.

I’ve ordered a Turnigy Servo Tester and thinking of using my steering potentiometer that’s left over after modding my HK GT2B for throttle, since it returns to center like a throttle.

Anyone with experience building one of these please chime in, it’ll help me and others that may want to do the same in future.


I call this style of remote the “Tweaker”, and will develop it further over time.

It has cruise control, since there is no spring loaded return to neutral, and needs no battery ever, since it’s powered by the ESC BEC.

Also gives you options on how to hold it. Photos 2-7 below demonstrate full throttle to full brake.

Currently shortcoming is no tactile or visual identification of neutral throttle position.


Okay, so I went for a test ride tonight, and the throttle modulation felt a little rough. I’m still using the original potentiometer, so didn’t replace it with the steering pot from my GT2B, not sure about the resolution of either.

Now to be fair, this could be due to 1.5m/5ft long phase leads between the ESCs and motors, and the resulting voltage spikes, but it didn’t feel like I imagine that would feel. Was rather rhythmic with a frequency of about 2Hz.

So possible Causes / Solutions:

  • Too long phase leads and voltage spikes / Install capacitors (or ferrite rings?)
  • Primitive PPM controller, it is after all a servo tester / Try GT2B with same setup
  • Potential low battery, since it reached LVC soon after / Charge battery pack
  • Battery Amp output too low, since lost power going uphill / Try Graphene LiPos

Out of the above, I went for the battery swap first as it was easiest. Things got a lot better on the Graphene packs, sorted a lot of random issues like stuttering and smooth pull offs and braking.

The 2Hz pulsing is still there, but kind of not noticeable at higher speeds, more so at walking / jogging pace. I think I’ll either get used to it, or get pissed and fix it, but it’s not related to the remote.

Matter of fact it’s good enough that I went to the shop last night and commuted with the wired remote today. No signal interference and no surprises there. Also figuring out remote wire management.

I’ll need to work on an ergonomic case and potentially auto-centering for the potentiometer, but going to use it for a while first to see how it works out.

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Nice one dude. When I make a go-kart one day I will find this info useful :rofl:


Now hot glued in and with red nail lacquered throttle position indicator. Shown top to bottom in full brake-, neutral-, and full throttle position.

I like the reliability and dependability over a wireless remote - no more signal cutouts or interference to worry about.
What I am concerned about is how you’re routing that wire to avoid snags.

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Believe me, as the rider, eliminating potential problems is my main concern.

Where my finger is pointing is where it goes into the main pack, along the side and through the hydration port, allowing easy and safe access to the remote with the backpack on. The setup as a whole will become more integrated over time.

Stress relief to connectors is provided by hot glue and plastic zip ties.


I can and do still use my backpack for what I have before, carrying my laptop and daily needs to and from work.

The wire management needs to be such that it doesn’t hinder this use while still remaining safe.

I don’t notice the remote wire at all when opening the main pack, as it disappears into the folds along the zipper.

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I fucking love this build dude. So creative.

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