I’m jumping back into building my second board and will use this thread to document the process. I have been sitting on most of the hardware for a while but am finally going to finish off the electronics and build the enclosure for it all. The hardware I have selected is based on my experience on a previous build that had a fantastic ride.
General Goals:
-Build and forget (beyond minor tweaks wirelessly)
-Very water-resistant (low pressure spray down after foggy SF rides)
-Integrated running/tail lights
-Integrated carrying handle
-Recoat the bottom of the deck with cork or bed liner
-Room for an Arduino Nano or something simular for remote upgrade options and general hacking in the future
This is post is a work in progress. I’ll add details as I think of them. So far I have stripped the beautiful cork coating off of the bottom of the board (so painful…). I have already flattened out the tail of the board as I like to be able to lean boards against things and not have them tipping over. As part of this I have added a skid plate to the kick tail and embedded fiberoptics for “running lights.” I will be making a fiberglass enclosure that will likely incorporate some 3D printed parts for mounting of electronics and wire management.
Need to finalize my plan still, but have definitely checked out some of your stuff for inspiration. The fiberglass thread is great. I am considering taping off my deck, shaping some bucks of high-density foam, and vacuum bagging the fiberglass over that. I won’t be stoked if I need to redo it, but that would be the cost of cutting out the fiberglass mold step. If it turns out rough it’s not too big of a deal because I plan to coat the whole bottom of the board with textured material (granulated cork like the original finish).
Made some progress on the built today. The battery is just about built and came together pretty nicely. I used a clear Gorilla tape double stick in between the 3S batteries to keep them fixed to each other but also so they never make direct contact with each other. The 10AWG wires were extended and connected with shrink wrap crimps and the 22AWG balance leads were extended with heat shrink/solder connectors. Kapton tape was then used to keep everything tight. Still need to crimp the balance leads.
I managed to fry my DieBieMS by accidentally reversing the polarity of the charge port. So while I get that straightened out I built up a Mad Monkey GT2B remote that I have had laying around (by FLATLINEcustoms). I hope to circle back around when the board is completed and try out some other “smart” remote options. I never had an issue with my last Mad Monkey GT2B remote with over 1000 miles.
I am not too concerned about the finish quality on it as it may turn into a sliding puck at a moment’s notice. It’s printed in ASA (similar to ABS). I taped off and filled in the LED and battery indicator ports and made sure everything was secured down rigidly with a healthy amount of high temp hot glue.
