My Boosted V2D+ and Stealth have been rock-solid, but I’m very aware that they are on borrowed time. Boosted replacement parts are pretty expensive, and I believe that DIY is the best option for me.
I plan to replace all the proprietary electronics and replace them with DIY parts. I want to replace the ESC with a FOCBOX Unity, and the battery with a 12s3p battery. I’m also replacing the remote with a Hoyt Puck.
I plan to keep the stock Boosted motors for now for the sake of cost and I plan to replace the entire rear truck with Hoyt’s drivetrain. I understand that the Boosted motors are a bottleneck.
I have one burning question in particular:
The battery-esc DC Higo connector seems to only be rated for 20A continuous. My Boosted Stealth is rated for 2000W. Without factoring in energy losses that occur during DC to 3-phase AC conversion, the maximum ideal theoretical power would be 54.4V (SR voltage) * 20A = 1088W. Does anybody know the peak rating for the battery-esc Higo connector? Does anybody know how to calculate and/or measure the peak battery current of the Boosted Stealth?
I would really like to keep the standard Boosted Higo battery-esc connector if possible for waterproofing, and for the potential to use Boosted batteries with my FOCBOX Unity if/when I figure out how to send fake CAN messages to the battery so that it thinks it is attached to a Boosted ESC.
We haven’t had anyone so far that has been able to reverse engineer the Boosted battery to get it to work with anything other than the Boosted ESC. They’ve got their BMS locked down pretty tight. You’re welcome to try, but I don’t think you’ll have much luck.
It is probably easier for you to keep your boosted boards working as-is, save a little money and go with something like this:
Loaded Vanguard
Eboosted Vanguard enclosures
12s3p or 10s4p of p42a cells (don’t remember off the top of my head what fits in the enclosures)
LTT Power smart bms or equivalent
2x 6355 motors
Some mechanical mounting solution (Boardnamics or such)
MakerX or equivalent dual vesc
That might be a tight fit (though who knows it might fit with 18650).
That’s a pretty big jump in cost (From 0$ to $800). Don’t replace until the motors truly kick the bucket.
So you’re going to go to 12s3p and then go back to boosted battery? I don’t see the point in going DIY then since a VESC in this instance would give you more headache than it’s worth to set up.
I agree with @ShutterShock above. Keep the boosted as is and just build another board. Maybe cannobilze the boosted for parts later down the road.
I already have a FOCBOX Unity that I ordered a bit a go!
On the Boosted Legacy Discord, we already have the SR Battery protocols reverse-engineered, but the XR Battery protocols are a mystery. If you stick an arduino or something that feeds a CAN-Forward message to your SR battery, you can theoretically use it with any VESC.
AH saw your micro board: Here are my thoughts when it comes to DIY on a Boosted Board.
I see no point whatsoever modifying a Boosted Board. Here’s why: It does what it needs to do with very few issues (relatively). And what exactly are you seeking to gain and at what cost?
It already achieves 25 mph with no modification.
If you’re not changing the battery then you’re not really changing the range you’re going to get. Are you even able to modify the BMS’s settings in regards to the battery?
If you are changing the battery (and in turn ESC) then at the cost of features with the remote (like turn off via remote) you achieve what exactly over what you originally had? VESC Tool parameters to set and be frustrated at until you achieve what you once had or achieved beyond? And well you probably will achieve more powerful performance but the question is will you achieved overall better. Will you achieve the same smooth ramping, braking, smooth torque?
I just don’t see what gain in fixing something that ain’t broke and already more easily fixable (via replacement) than what we have.
Oh nice I guess I didn’t follow that project all the way. I thought we were stuck.
Really? All the ones I have seen have looked incredible, besides, you use a gasket anyway so a little bit off isn’t the worst.
@vagabundo Actually maybe search around on here for some boosted DIY’s, I do remember seeing some pretty great ones.
You could even look on the “oThEr pLaCe” too, I know there was at least one person who had done one a long time ago. Not sure if they migrated over here or not
While they might look good, that’s because they’re stationary.
I’d bet money that unless you pot the enclosure / battery, (or have a PERFECT gasket seal( very unrealistic)) that your battery is as risk from water ingress. This is due to the massive amount of flex that vanguards have, in combination with the fact that only two sides of the enclosure have bolts in them. (And it’s not even the entire length of either side… In the front of the battery enclosure there’s easily 3 inches past the last position for a bolt to go through, and that area specifically is especially susceptible)
I’ve ‘mitigated’ this issue by loading the board so it’s flexed to high hell, and then spooging in ungodly amounts of silicone. It holds the enclosure to the deck, while allowing for some flex.
… To be fair there’s probably a reason not to do this, as it’ll likely cause something to break before the silicone holding it all together does
The ESC enclosure is small enough to where it won’t matter, so I totally endorse using that. It’s the perfect size for 2x focboxes, a y splitter, remote reciever and metr module, and it’s got sexy looks.
Should just bought the BKB duo and called it a day. Then you could easily DIY that and swap out parts as you see fit. I’d love to eventually see boosted’s proprietary bullshit destroyed but it’s not worth it for you at this point. Keep it as it is for now and let someone else in the discord figure it out so you can save money
Oh I didn’t get that you were talking about that part. Yeah with the 6 screws there isn’t a lot to keep it from flexing away from the deck, short of internally water-resisting / potting stuff into the enclosure, I’m not sure. The other solution is to just not ride through water, like I do even on my normal board.
If you splash proof it inside, it shouldn’t be a huge deal. Idk if you ride in rain or something but with my board I always ride like 1mph through water bc I don’t like cleaning the wet dirt off the board lmao
As for the Higo connector, I’m assuming you already did a google search looking for the spec sheet @vagabundo
