Boardnamics Precision 220mm Caliber II Hangers

Nah man it’s all good. I’d also be much more inclined to protect some SR or other high end trucks in a custom color. Black isn’t too hard for me to touch up

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Not anymore lol…
your sleeves look cool, besides the protection, this could make you grind better on concrete curbs but you’d need to replace them a lot.
How does the beercan deck feel?

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Yeah, I guess you could grind them… I don’t have tons of filament types to experiment with so these aren’t flexible, just pla. But I’m sure you could find a better material.
The board scratches easily, but is crazy light and thin, with a small bit of flex. Vibrations will be crazy but my streets are well paved for the most part. Drop through wit the 12” hangers and a 42” x 10.5” deck is hella spacious and comfy tho ngl
The rails are the best and worst thing about this deck at the same time, will be a cool build for sure :call_me_hand:

image

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Is that u K?

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The brim tells the story.

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Dayyyumn good on u K, (I was referring to how ppl ride their esk8s not real boards)
but shiiiiiiiiiii doesn’t matter man u grind em trucks my guy, lmao :call_me_hand:

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You right. Not shredding the esk8 like that… yet. Gonna see what I can manage once The Neo Hubs arrive. That’ll free up some opportunity

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This guy does.

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Hmm… I got sent a pair of scratched up trucks almost double that price… Maybe you’re the help they need…

I also literally kick my board with ~$1500 of parts in it around and take the $180 integrated deck off high curbs… an ABS enclosure would def be cracked by now.

But yeah - as you said, all personal preference. I just think if you keep thinking the way you are you’ll actually be quite bummed the first time something gets a bad scratch in it.

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Hey do you have the drawings for the original trucks? And would you be willing show them to me? I got a pair and want to see the exact dimensions

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@Boardnamics ^

I do 10chars

Added a pin to key the kingpin in place. Problem solved :grinning:

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Be careful, I’ve anealed 2 kingpins so far with my shitty drill press :japanese_goblin::clown_face: appears to happen on the adjustable ones more. The regular ones machine through really nicely.

Also my personal sets of 220s have been through some and they’re still going strong. No shoulder bolt issues yet :innocent:

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I drill them hardened. Cobalt steel and low rpm.
My drill press is harbor freight $40. Drilled at least 1400 holes with it, still kicking it.

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It’s not the drill press, all that does is spin. Sharp drill bits is the key here. I’ve hand drilled through titanium rods and those work harden like hell. Cobalt steel is where it’s at. Anything less is for wood and plastic.

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I have these POS should i just go and get new ones? I am running at high RPM which might be the issue, but its weird they only dont work with the non adjusable baseplates.

Those claim to be cobalt, although the price seems too cheap for good colbalt bits. But you definitely don’t want high RPMs. The key to drilling hardened metals is low RPM, high pressure. You want the bit to take a layer of metal as it goes around, not drill by scraping the surface off. The moment the tip of the drill overheats, it’s basically done and it turns into a heat generator. Low speed, high pressure, backing off once in awhile to add oil and cooling.

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when you all got the axles, did you still do the Anti-seize + loctite treatment?

I think I need to clean out my hanger holes lol where’s my wd40

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