It’s clear that the issue for me is with the motor gear - meaning it’s bearing and not the truck adapter right? Because the one gear is really tight on both sides and the other is fine on both sides. But I shouldn’t sand the inside of the bearing right? If I sand the truck adapter that will mean I won’t be able to switch sides with the gears as the sanded truck will be too loose for the gear that fits well on both sides?
Oh I didn’t know that.
It’s a complex tolerance stack. The bearing in the gear is press fit in the aluminum hub and gear. So depending on how tight the press fit is will determine how much the inner race will shrink. The bearing had its own tolerance as well so it’s technically a sum of 3 tolerances 
The motor gear is supposed to slide. Loctite 648 is required + the key that’s included.
1 Like
To be clear, the bearing of the gear doesn’t need to be loctited to the hanger adapter.
2 Likes
I already have this in my home. Can I use in on all my screws in the gear drive?
I ordered the 648 green retaining compound - is that only used on the top and bottom of the key of the motor to keep the motor pulley in place or elsewhere too?
3 Likes
Yea these will work fine for the small screws for the gearbox and motor screws.
2 Likes
You only really need to use the green for the motor pinion and key. I recommend taking the motor pinion off the shaft, putting a bit of green loctite on the shaft, and then slide the pinion on and spin it around the shaft a few times until it feels like it was evenly coated.
After that, you can slide it off, put a drop on the key, and put them both on. Make sure to line it up perfectly with the drive gear and then wait at least 30 minutes before touching it again.
You can also add an aditional drop onto the little crack between the pinion and the shaft and it should wick in there for good measure.
1 Like
Actually, i recommend applying the green loctite on the inside of the motor pinion instead. So you just need to slide it into the shaft, make sure it aligns with the wheel gear, and wipe any excess that comes out the end of the shaft, so no need to remove it.
3 Likes
That’s a better idea actually, I agree
Both would work probably
2 Likes
I am wondering if anyone has any ideas on this. I have been for two rides now. On the first ride (but not right away. Roughly halfway through) I heard a clicking sound coming from one of my drives. We thought it was bearings originally so we swapped those. Inspected the drive and don’t see anything hitting something else from what we can tell. On the 2nd ride it was not happening right away but roughly halfway through the ride.
It makes a click sound at a certain point on each rotation so at a lower speed you can hear it but once you get past a certain speed probably past around 30kmh you don’t hear it anymore.
Unlikely the culprit, but did you make sure your keys are slightly Loctited to the shaft/keyway?
2 Likes
Yes we made sure to do that and also all around the motor pinion.
1 Like
In the Citadel:
5 Likes
I used 648 on mine and all good so far, 300 miles now.
2 Likes
Thanks. I’m glad I ordered 648.
1 Like
Not sure if anyone answered your 242 question. I think 242 requires no oil or substances to be present, 243 that stuff will work in presence of oil / other stuff
2 Likes
Linny replied
1 Like
638 will work on the motor gear too…right?
638 is damn near the same as 648 you should be good to go useing that
1 Like
Both in the wiki
Not exactly. Let’s be precise here, as threadlockers have precise uses.
4 Likes
Forgot about your wiki post, will have to remember to link it next time.
To me, it would seem like higher viscosity would be easier to apply to something like a gear, so 648 makes sense
1 Like