Calling out a typo here for future thread readers. I think you guys mean loctite 638
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edited for posterity!
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Thanks yeah I didn’t even check lol I typically just say green 
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Shrek goop
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Does anyone know if BN m1-ATs are compatible with Hypertruck lites?
@Boardnamics - how about adapters to fit them on Matrix 3s? (I’m happy to file hanger corners to larger radius if needed)
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I’m feeling like the screws attaching the adapter plate to the drive should be panhead but only socket head were included… before I loctite everything down, can someone please confirm? Pretty sure the pic on the BN site shows panhead screws in this spot…
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That’s the correct screw. M4 like 8 or something
When I did those photos of the drives, the old plates used flat head screws there. You could have used socket head then, and you still can now, so if everything fits without grinding ( make sure you don’t use the longer case screws for that) you’re fine.
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yeah those old screws stripped way too easy
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I switched to pan head to bring things in a smidge closer, but otherwise yeah like everyone said you should be good to go.
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How much shaft length wiggle room do these drives allow? My Dremel won’t turn on after the last session and one of my shafts is a tad longer than the other.
Aslong as you can close it and it’s not rubbing the case your fine
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As long as it’s 26mm or under it’ll be fine
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Ok, looking for advice on how to get my spacers correct:
after running this thing a bit I realized that the gap between the drive adapter output, and the wheel rim needs to be as close as possible so I’m fine tuning it to reduce the wear point at the rim bolts interface with the drive adapter. Im having a hard time figuring out how to measure it.
I want (correct me if I’m wrong) the spacers on the axle between the drive and the rim bearing stack somewhere between 0 and +.1mm so that when I fully tighten the axle nut the wheel bearings don’t have any side load but also the drive adapter also just makes contact with the rim. Too tight (small) and it pushes on the wheel bearings by sucking them in and too loose and the rim bolts saw through the drive adapter.
When i stack it all up I can’t see in there. Should I just use a feeler gauge between the rim and the drive adapter and slowly trial and error it down or is there a better way. I cant seem to get a good measurement with my calipers, probably because im a noob and I don’t have (cant find) my feeler gauges.
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If you have 1mm speed rings, use them one by one in increments till you see the wheel hub and the metal plate start to space out a bit. Assuming it spaces out at 6mm worth of speed rings, then your spacer size is 5mm.
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Careful with this, as I understand it the lateral force from the axle nut through the wheel bearings is needed to put pressure on the gearbox adapter… unless I’m misunderstanding
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No you’re right on this I believe, finally dialed it down to 11.2mm and can only just slip a .1mm spacer between the rim and the adapter plate. Looks great and i got a test run in just before the rain hit. No more skid marks on the gear box for me 
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So, after searching the web and not finding it: with which axle diameters is the M1-AT compatible?
It depends on your truck/hanger adapter. 10mm or 12mm generally
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