Boardnamics M1-AT Drive | Helical Steel MTB/AT Gear Drive

New theory.

Maybe a bearing on the gears…

Clicking is there without the hub…

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Click click

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I checked wheel bearings. Couldn’t find the click. Gave up.
On straight cut street drives.

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Remove the cover and spur gear. Spin the motor by hand without the gear and see if the sound persists. Then put the gear back and spin it without the cover on.

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I really feel like I am especially good at breaking shit…



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Thats some snazzy glitter you got there.

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I just snorted some of it and I am flying sky high…


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Really inspect those teeth really well. I had a similar sound issue and turned out to be a 1-2 malformed teeth on just one side of the tooth which explains why the sound only happens when spun one way.

Your pinion breaking free could have caused a deformation, but it maybe fine too. A proper sized file can fix the malformed teeth

@rosco this could pretain to your clicking too

Also, personally if i ran helicals, I would delete the circlip and use the exact length spacers from motor bearing to pinion. That would relieve the sideload stress on pinion loctite and take away the possibility of a circlip jumping out.

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Well dude.
At a glance the teeth look fine.

It’s quite impressive you can’t even tell which half of the pinion chewed through the case.

And really clever idea with the spacers.

What are the chances I have them…

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If it’s a 8mm shaft you can use speed rings

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Can’t take the credit for the idea, just remember @Venom121212 having this issue and rectifying it in that manner.

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For helical gears, doesn’t it only work on the one side since the other pinion is pushed away from the motor?

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Possibly, my brain hurts think of it though so I’ll let others chime in

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I will certainly make an attempt to do it on this side.
I can’t see where it could hurt…

Try to use steel spacers, aluminum might get squooshed out (if you are using speed rings)

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Yes. This is why I don’t run my moon helicals anymore. Since they weren’t mirrored, one was held on with loctite only while the other had washer shim backups. Braking switches the lateral forces of course.

Ideal solution would be a bespoke spacer made out of one piece but washer stacking works until you break your loctite. Then the can and shaft separate and it can cause a magnet misalignment which is negative fun.


Still curious how my circlip jumped to that side of the shaft :thinking:

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Are you running straight cuts or herringbone now?

Straight cut gang but with my new job and access to special tools… Who knows :smirk:

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I wanna see sine wave cut gears, imagine how smooth that would be

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Here is how I am going to roll today.

Leaving the motor as is with the circlip.

But adding spacers to the top of the shaft.
So the pinion buts up against them.

A regular skateboard spacer was too tall…







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