Thank you Good Sir. Happy holidays!
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I mean you can try paint stripper, that will get you a little closer
Besides if you have bare aluminum you can mark with a sharpie and all the spots that have the sharpie removed are areas you need to file
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Awesome trick with marker to see where to file. I will try that.
How snug does this need to be?
1- slides in and out easily
2- can push with hand force
3- hammer it in and out
IThank you again for the help @ZachTetra @glyphiks.
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The ‘ideal’ fit would be a gentile tap with a bit of wood to get it on and off, just so it’s serviceable
If you’re really committed though you can put the hanger in the freezer for an hour and put the clamp in boiling water, then it’s gonna be hella tight. It has to be a close fit though
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You want it as snug as possible. Aiming for snug hand fit would be ideal
I believe @Venom121212 made me aware that an ideal ‘tapping’ method is to use a bit of pvc pipe that will fit against the flange and to tap that with a bit of wood/mallet
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My drives wiggle a little bit but they won’t fall of and I need a hammer them off th remove them. It’s for matrix II. Should I be concerned about this in the long run?
It’s annoying to disassemble a greasy gear drive that’s been loctited down. I’m assuming this drive uses the M8 brake hole on the matrix 2s? If so, loctite that sucker down and crank it tight. Don’t want that wiggle opening up the door for future loosening.
Red loctite and an impact driver do wonders for peace of mind lol
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i 648 mine onto my airs
they can take a rubber/deadblow hammer and torching no problem
The whole idea behind the design is that the drives are a separate component that can be slid on over the hanger. The axle nut tightened down puts a tremendous amount of pressure on the surface normal to the axle, removing any chances of rattling. It also means the drive sits perfectly square every time which is very important for smooth operation. In addition, it makes disassembly easy.
They are not press-fit since that would be difficult to remove + would vary greatly.
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Update on Matrix II tight fit.
So I talked to Kevin and he recommended sanding the paint of with table top sander. I don’t have a table top sander any life jacks on other tools to get the paint off? I think I do have paint thinner but I’ve heard it’s flammable. Do I paint thin and sand off by hand? I also have a dremel.
Paint thinner is definitely flammable, but once it evaporates it’s fine, do it outside
You can use sandpaper but it will take a while, I’d personally use a file, it’s easier to get a consistent shape
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Dumb tip, and forgive me if you’ve already thought it this, but try fitting your drives on your front trucks as well.
Much easier to swap than sand.
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Do these have berg adaptors?
I tried both trucks. Sanded the paint off. No dice on either method.
Now trying to freeze the truck for a couple of hours and boil the aluminum hanger part of the drive.
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how would you get that back off? hacksaw?
At that point you just stick it in a mill and carve in the BN hanger profile
Or it becomes the front axle
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Good point about getting it off. I’ll abandon that idea.
Next step file the adapter.
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blow torch
soft mallet
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