Would it be possible to grind down that motor clamp to make room for the bigger motor? Might have to drill some new bolt holes in it.
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Possibly, I was hoping it would be easier than that 
A motor with a 45mm shaft and a big spacer would work as well.
Alternately, I think @moon left enough room on his drives. I just need to break mine down and make a design.
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You’re welocme! And the answer is, very carefully lol
I had a carbide cutter bit on my dremel and I just went around slowly taking off stuff until it fit. It really wasn’t the greatest experience, thus they aren’t recommended as highly for use.
Obviously since you’ve already started, you’re probably gonna finish. Just keep at it… It takes a while. Only advice I can really give is try to find the high spots by sliding the adapter on and looking at where it hits
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Thank you! That is what I did! I slided it in and looked where to grind many times. It finally slided in!
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I bought the drivetrain for mbs trucks. It comes with 6384 motors. These motors seem to be too long to me. 6374 would probably be better. The truck hanger is only 5mm from the motors. They are touching the motors when I turn. Should I grind the hangers? Or do I do something wrong?? @Boardnamics @ShutterShock
That’s correct. Pretty sad to see it but a tiny bit must be filed right where it hits. You could also lower the 3 angle adjustment screws 1 notch but they are loctited in so that might be a pain.
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It’s actually not that hard to adjust the angle. If you put it down one notch it should be fine, I didn’t want to file that part of my hangers
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@boardnamics @ShutterShock Thank you so much for your replies! I did not assemble it but I would rather deassemble and adjust the angle. Can you show me a picture of what I got to do. What is the notch location? I have blue or red loctite to put back in place.
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If @Boardnamics assembled it, I guess he would know what loctite he used
All you have to do is unscrew the three screws on the backside of the main plate and rotate it down. You shouldn’t even need to take off the wheel.
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a hacksaw would do a great job and be pretty easy
Thanks again for your replies!! I did try tyo unscrew the 3 srews but my tool flexes and it wont come off. I will go to the hardware store to buy a better tool today. Did you have to heat the three screws to be able to unscrew them? I am thinking about using solder iron to locally heat the screws. I dont want to break the screws. If you have any hint please tell me! 
@Boardnamics @ShutterShock
I installed my own drives, and used blue loctite on those, so not that hard to take out
Not sure what Kevin did on the prebuilts
This likely wouldn’t work very well haha
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I succeded removing only two screws after the third started to strip. Unfortunatly I am seeing red threadlocker on the screws so I do not think I will be able to remove them. I will email @boardnamics.
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After casting dark magic spells (with the help of a vice holding the filed bolts so they are not round anymore) I unscrewed all 6 bolts! @boardnamics Now it is time to reconstruct the gear drives. Thanks @ShutterShock for the video!
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Lmao alright bro nice. Fortunately it’s not too hard to screw them back in. I believe they are m4x8mm but Kevin can correct that.
Blue loctite is fine there IMO. I always check my board before I ride anyways.
You’re welcome, glad I could help people. I’ve received helpful feedback on the production quality already from someone on here, so look forwards to even better content in the future!
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@ShutterShock what is stopping this from impacting and rubbing? Should I put a spacer? None were included
Cc: @Boardnamics
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Loctite 648. No spacers needed.
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Yeah, what kevin said. It’s just the green loctite, I suppose if you wanted to you could put some washers behind it or something but it’s probably not necessary.
The axial forces aren’t actually that high
okay, gonna ignore my deep mistrust of all adhesives
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Only other way would be some kind of circlip method on both sides 
Or a set screw that goes into a hole drilled in the shaft
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