I’ve never used flipskys so the clearance might be different on different motors.
God forbid there be an industry standard
It bothers the hell out of me but at least it leaves the exact right gap to put a thrust bearing in there without needing the Belleville washer so I’ll run it as is
Is the pinion hitting a step on the motor shaft? If so I would run a spacer between motor + drive mounting plate so you can lower the pinion more and line them up
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Then the motor doesn’t sink heat to the motor mount plate
If the offset would cause issues I can lathe the ring down, but I’ll only do it if people think it’ll be a problem
You can get/make metal shims which would still help transfer heat. I think you’re probably fine running it as-is also.
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@Ac53n had these made for me and a few others, a bit of thermal paste on either side of the spacer also helps a bit.
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Hi friend, on your M1 AT, what can you prevent when the wheel is separated from the wheel gear moving towards trans and touching the back of the gear driver and blocking the wheel movement?
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Installing the case of the gear drive will solve this, because the case has a bearing in it that supports the gear and keeps it aligned. Without the case, the gear is not fully supported so it can wobble and hit the plate.
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lol did you really just try to tag everyone XD
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I’ve also tried with the box and even though it’s a single piece it only moves backwards too, but I haven’t really used any type of Loctite yet. Maybe with the Loctite it doesn’t move backwards
You should be ok once you put the gear drives together. Like @DuckBatterySystems said, there is a bearing in the outer case that will hold the wheel gear in place and prevent it from grinding into the inner case.
Also, you have straight cut gears, and those will help to hold the wheel gear in alignment as well.
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They’re nominally 6.5mm, with a LSL of 6.45mm
Ain’t no 1/4” up in here.
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news friend???
Get the pitchforks, he doesnt measure in cheeseburgers per football field!
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No pitchforks because it’s in mm haha