Question tho. Just looked at my board, both have faces. So do I add core and another face or…?
I core is a face just faces are usualy really nice looking cores.
Or
a Core that has nice grain patterns that is sanded down is a face.
Pretty much the nicest looking veneer thats gain is going down the length of the deck is a face.
Cores can be faces and faces can be cores.
Not to get to crazy with you but some choose to use a x-grain or grain that goes the width of the deck as a face layer. (This is usually for looks but does provide more strength over all) Some just like the way that gain directions looks. Posted Above are the most common 9 ply layups. That does not mean you are set to them rules but there are most likely a reason they are the standards.
I myself have some odd layups, that don’t fall into the standard. They work just fine.
1 Like
Alright so I just add a core on the bottom and a face on top and it should be good
1 Like
You got it!
1 Like
I am hoping this fixes the problem 
Unfortunately I have to sand down my bad ass custom paint job 
but I guess it is what it is to improve what needs to get fixed
1 Like
Nice work on the deck. To make it stiffer I would just add fiberglass to the bottom. 10 oz would probably get the job done. If you still want stiffer, sand the fiberglass and add another layer. Keep going until you get what you want.
At the end of the day everything will be ok. Live and learn.
2 Likes
Appreciate it. Never used fiberglass before so best alternative is to add two more veneer so it makes a 9 ply
1 Like
Bruh… you have to flow with the flex… 
Also not sure how a motor would add to your deck flex? 
1 Like
Not sure, just assuming. I would totally agree with the flex statement. But unfortunately. With my enclosure being right where the flex is. I’m risking damage to my lipo packs and other electronics as time goes on. So in that case, making it stiffer. Could have a tiny, tiny bit of flex but not how it is now
Go with a 2 piece enclosure or a different deck… I have a sector nine here that’s about the same style but let flex.
1 Like
I made the deck from scratch. Didn’t buy it. Been offered some suggestions on how to stiffen it so my batteries / electronics won’t be in danger, we’ll see how it turns out tho
Maybe a latter of fiber and another veneer. Flex is good though and I would would bet your lipos go bad before they ever get damaged by the flex…
1 Like
Was thinking about using carbon fiber for the top, not sure if bottom is needed. Would be my first time doing it. Might add a face layer on top as well. My lipos are CNHL. Good brand plus I’m running an BMS so the lipos would be monitored / set to safety voltages
Skin it in UD Cf
Suggest 1 or 2 layers 200gsm to the bottom.
Motor is mounted on the truck and adds no weight to the deck (in terms of deck flex) so that is not the issue.
I bought a dervish flex 2 and turned it into an LDP board by skinning with 2/200gsm UD CF top and bottom and it’s awesome. I’m 100kg. Still has some flex but it’s way stiffer.
4 Likes
Adding carbon to the top won’t make it mush stiffer under foot. The CF or FG laminate needs to be in tension, to add stiffness on the deck, so it needs to be on the underside.
2 Likes
I figured it was not adding enough veneers, you mind PMing me what you used and also how to do it? Is it simple or challenging. So far I haven’t found anything as effective as what you said so i’ll give this a try
I used epoxy resin and UD CF fabric at 200gsm weight. Aligned the fibres along the deck.
I vac bagged it while it cured with peel ply and a bleeder/breather fabric.
Have a few pics on my workshop thread, but not too much description. Plenty of resources around online - some good west systems info.
Edit - some info here on the vacuum bag stuff I have used:
2 Likes
What kind of epoxy resin you recommend? Also i got an vacuum bag i can use. Trying to see what epoxy is the best, do i need to get a hardener also? (was watching tutorials, that’s why i asked)
Depends on what you’re using it for and how it’ll be applied.
I have used west system lots. For wet layup and also vac bagging. It’s good, but maybe some cheaper options about.
Have also used vinyl ester resin for infusion cos it’s a lot thinner and flows better which is important for that.
Probably will be used for the board, might implement that into future boards as a modernized look. I do like to have the sides exposed the veneer, could i cut the extra CF off or its basically impossible since its cured onto the board