Does the dual trigger version not have a battery capacity gauge?
My single trigger version has a single indication light that’s normally used to distinguish between low and high mode but can show capacity with different colors when you tap the lighting button once.
Edit: I realize my phrasing here is confusing so here’s an excerpt from Kamen’s instructions for the single trigger. Z-mote
“Button A
-Single click Triggers a battery check. Blue led means battery is over %70, magenta color %70-40, red %40-20, flashing red below %20. This pattern is also executed just once when you turn on your remote”
Sigh - my Instagram contact has gone dark, not sure if it’s intentional or not. Guess I have to use email and try to figure out if they’re going to send me the new one
@ShutterShock
How do you like the onsra tkp trucks in regards to handling and turning?
I just installed a set on a Bustin Sportster build. I switched out bushings for some riptide APS 93a barrels in the rear and APS 90a in the front. First impressions the handling was very sluggish and the trucks don’t turn enough. I think the handling may be due to the longer wheelbase. I notice that the truck hangars are further away from the truck/deck mounting area.
I only tested out one bushing combo, so I’ll be testing more in the future. Just wanted to see if you had a similar experience.
Krank bushings might be the best option for these trucks. APS are fine but krank i think has slightly higher rebound and can be tuned more noticeably with kingpin tightening and the types of washers used. Using a cupped washer vs the high wall for the front truck might yield better results in terms of not feeling sluggish as well.
I played around with having a 90A barrel boardside and 87A roadside for each truck and that gave me some better control fo my weight.
I will say I do find them to be a bit sluggish on the default bushings. I still haven’t gotten to try any combos out though. I have some 87a bushings I may try out to see if that’ll be good. I’m slightly nervous about going to softer bushings but it’ll probably be fine. I don’t know what the defaults are but they aren’t great.
Good to know on your info tho - those are quite hard though. I also wonder how my slightly wider track width will affect bushing response. II also agree that the wheelbase is pretty long. I can’t do a one-lane u turn, it’s more like two lane.
I’ve only used Krank, never tried APS before.
Probably not, I’m paying attention but I’ve got washers under the nuts so I think it’ll be fine. I have noticed a bit of cracking of the enamel under the baseplates on top of the deck though which is a little annoying.
I haven’t noticed an issue but I also stuck the antenna for the remote into the padding that goes around the outside of my enclosure to help the signal get through.
As you all here know, this build is completed and riding, but thought I’d share my VESC tutorial I made for it here in the thread for records sake!
I’ve got one more video planned for this build, summarizing my experience over the first 200 miles, I think this will be a great conclusion to the build series, and I’ll be proud to leave this on the internet!
There are certainly a couple things I need to do with this build, and one of those is definitely bushing tuning. If anyone here is reading this and has experience tuning TKP trucks or the Onsra ones in particular, I’d love to hear. The bushings in them right now are just the stock chinesium ones, and I definitely want to upgrade to Riptides, but not exactly sure where to start. May consider some of the suggestions above though, see what bushings I’ve got laying around. Never mixed compounds before
Realistically I probably should start by just trying a flat washer on the stock bushings but I don’t know if it’s even worth it.
Mostly, I’m looking for more low speed maneuverability. I’ve gone up to about 37 on these with the stock bushings, so maintaining that is definitely a priority, but they are pretty bad for smaller streets.
