This is too expensive…I just poured $130 into all the hardware I need and that’s just too much man. But at least we are on the way to having everything! Only the Metroboard group buy for tubes and tires then all the parts are accounted for
Wait no I need belts…who has 420mm to 435mm HTD5M 15mm belts?
So the front trucks look perfect, the axles go in nicely and it all looks great, but the back is giving me problems…first of all the extra meat in the hangars is preventing the hub from sitting up against the axles because the pulley is already pushing against the mount, and secondly the idler isn’t going to work because the 72T pulley is too close already. I think I’ll be okay by using a 2mm washer and getting the exact belt I need… otherwise I’m kinda boned until the long motor mounts come out
Yes and no, it can be mounted that way but the pockets that hold all the screws would be wrong. There would be a big air gap between the plate and clamp which isn’t great
I think I can get some washers to do the job, I need them anyways. But yeah if all else fails I’m installing them backwards
P.S. @Boardnamics the BN270 do actually work with Rockstar II hubs and MBS’s polymer pulleys, you just need to bottom out the mount to the middle and use a 2mm M10 washer, but you absolutely need the right belts since the idler doesn’t fit…but damn it feels SOLID, I love it so much
Edit: 15:72 with 420mm belts is a magic number for these mounts
All the parts are now ordered! In theory I do not need to buy more things! We all know that won’t happen but it’s nice to dream
I tested the motors and the 6380 run at 154kv and the 6354 run at 156kv, that is using the ERPM at full throttle (95% duty) over the battery voltage at the time and again over 7 for the pole pairs
We got board tail ends! Cross Fox drivetrain is just missing the set screws on the motor pulleys, Black Bear is waiting on belts and pulleys and then I need to finish up the axle spacers
Since I can’t get the idler in with the 72T pulley and the motor is a fixed position, the best option I have is to get the right belt and stick with it, in that case 15:72 with a 15T belt
I had to do some fuckery with the Sportster deck to get the wheels to fit, I added an extra set of holes so now there are 3 full sets, now the baseplates stick off the end but it’s all good since I just barely don’t get bite on the front, the Faultline deck should get the same treatment but it’s okay
Hot tip for the new BN mounts, if you use an M4x20 socket head you can put a nylock on the other end and then it hella secure
Belts and pulleys came in these evening! The tension seems perfect, a little tight but the belts should wear in very soon, I feel like I very narrowly escaped catastrophe
I clean out the bore holes with a Q-Tip and rubbing alcohol. Often there are metal chips in there from the manufacture process. In fact, almost always there have been metal chips in there.
If you take a shoulder bolt that is not installed on a truck, and use it to push the wheel onto it, it will take all the spacers and washers and whatnot off the axle and keep them all aligned and together so you can take the entire stack off the axle and slide it all back on. Without fidgeting with all the washers and whatnot
What makes epoxy any better? If you want it to really stay I would have thought green Loctite is the way to go
Also I needed the shoulder bolts because I want to run them shorter than the fixed axles and I needed a 10mm shank because 28x10x8 bearings are way easier to get than 28x8x8 bearings
Doing a bit of an overhaul, trying to get my hands on a 42" Demonseed so I can CNC out some bigger wheel wells and a narrower center, and I’ve sold off the old 12s4p and enclosures so I can try again with Nanuk Nano 330 and Small 904 enclosures since they give me more wiggle room (needed the extra room for a beefy charge port and the other electronics for underglow in the battery, and generally more space to fit the ESC)