I shouldn’t post this here so I won’t. Dm incoming lol…
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Could be a million things, I can’t find any good process for testing a BMS smart or otherwise. Im just going to make a smart load that i can log what the bms is doing and compare it to the specs but that is a long process and it’s just to salvage the pile of dumb bms’s i have stacked waiting for recycle cell packs. Im going to 100% smart bms and external balance leads for all of my builds now. Im done losing expensive packs due to crap bms
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So just make a charger adapter with the BMS to plug into an external balance connector? Then I can just make a new BMS adapter instead of rebuilding the pack right?
Probably? Making an adapter is simple, if you can get a male jst connector instead of the crap i suggested it will be way more reliable.
Repining the one on the pack is dangerous because it can short out easily so you would have to be on your A game to do it. No fuses, just tiny wires keeping the batt safe.
Make double sure the adapter takes the old pinout to the new bms correctly, no fuck ups or it can smoke it.
I see no reason why an adapter couldn’t be a permanent solution if the pack is still healthy and it is executed well
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I can smell the shorted out balance wires now
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I know right? I wonder if I might find some 5a through hole fuses to incorporate into future packs? If they were indicating type and i use clear shrink on my packs it would be easy to see if one failed. Or is there a self resetting type that wouldn’t fail from vibration?
Id rather a have a good reliable bms, something I could just seal up and forget about. I dropped the cash for some ENNOID bms, expensive but the specs look good so fuck it. Hopefully they will be a cry once solution, time will tell.
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You got me scared so I dig out all the balance wires. They’re all fine.
Pack reads 0.3v now on main discharge. I really wanna know what I fucked up.
What’s the measurements at each p group? Assuming This is not a bms bypass setup?
All 4.1V, but I fully removed the end groups (group 6 and group 7) and found weak welds. Looks like I’m going to try welding it again, string it up again and test it on a new BMS. Hopefully it’s just the one strip that came off.
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Oooooo yup. That will do it. Which group was open?
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Group 6 negative side, the whole strip was off. Rest seems stuck but not this one strip.
Any tips for doubling up nickel? I’m gonna weld on some regular strips and make 3 tails for series wires.
Also if anyone has settings for the malectrics that work well 0n 0.2mm let me know.
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Don’t own a malectric welder. On that kweld train. If you’re welding thicc strips together, put a metal thing underneath. Seems to help with welding the thicker nickel.
Wait so you hate bms but you’re putting a BMS in your board that has known phantom drain issues lmao
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Over voltage faults are typically a result of a bad main battery connection, or a bad series connection.
Considering that your bms is also affected, i’d be tipping that something is up with the main negative connection
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Tore it apart, put it back together, now it’s testing just fine and the VESC gets all the power
BMS working too. Just balancing out an 0.03v Delta
Phew what a rollercoaster
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Quiescent amps don’t ascairt me. Just remove everything from the pack for storage.
I hate BMS’ because up to this point they’ve let me down. Doesn’t mean I won’t find one I like. 
Forever the optimist….
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Great stuff ! Dankeschön
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Aaand now on a ride my motors started acting up. And my remote isn’t responding, and I get bad detection in one side, can’t replicate the problem by swapping the motors.
Fuck today man I just wanted to ride.
I even managed to get over 20km before this fuckery.
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If you ride as transportation, you need at least 3 boards IMHO.
One on the bench, one under your feet, and one on the charger.
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Yeah I’m feeling that. I have my evolve and this one, currently getting parts together for another build while I discover kinks in this one