He got too deep for his audience.
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Nice! 
Covering the balance wires is a good idea. Black hot glue tends to be stronger than clear. You can also use silicone adhesive (get that stuff that’s not corrosive to electronics, very important)
I have a question about my VX2 remote.
I drive quite often in the inner city for commute and my VX2 will sometimes lose signal. It happens usually once every 4 hours or so. So it isnt super critical but it makes me feel less safe on the board especially when accelerating.
Sometimes the cutoff will be very quick - 0.5 second to reconnect and itll continue thr same throttle.
Sometimes itll fully disconnect and I will have to let go of the throttle before I can accelerate.
I have also noticed how the remote will disconnect somrtimes when I hold the remote and phone very close to each other (when checking GPS). Just recently, Ive begun to turn off wifi on my phone and it seems to have had an effect - I dont disconnect as often when having remote and phone too close (I havent tested this more than a few days so I am not sure yet).
The issue is that I have been using a crappy Hobbywing remote from Verreal for many months with very very rare disconnects. I trusted that remote a lot and my friends still ride it - one friend has ridden 2000km with less rhan 5 disconnects (he claims).
The disconnects were super bad at one point but got a ton better when I changed the wires with new ones.
So: is the VX2 too sensitive for where I am riding? If so, which remotes with km/hr display is suitable for city driving?
RF interference is common in urban setting and is usually the cause of cutouts. There are certain remotes that have stable connections basically in any environment. The hoyt puck is rock solid, but does not have any info or telemetry of any kind. The new VX1 pro is reportedly very stable and has lights that display battery charge. The VX4 uses the same wireless module as the VX1 and has some telemetry built in as well. There were some problems w the firmware on the VX4 but I think they have been resolved w an update.
3 Likes
yes, but surely there are cheap option than meepo?
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Question about UART remotes, used with metr’s and flexiBMS’. Is there a way I can have all three pieces of cake and eat em too?
Just bought a voyager on a whim. The build will have a metr and flexiBMS for sure. Is there a way to connect them all with a duel vesc setup? I know I should know haha, but it’s been a minute since I built a dual setup, let alone with all the new telemetry devices…
Remote on one side, metr and flexi via usplit on the other side
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Hey guys!
My board stood around for quite some time sadly.
The battery pack is a 10S3P from Acido that served me well.
However, it won’t charge past 33/34V anymore 
I left it hooked up to the charger for days and it repeatedly charged but would always shut off shortly afterwards, as if the battery was fully charged already.
Is this battery dead? :(((
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Unless you have a smart bms there’s no way to tell what’s going on unless you open the pack up and measure each p-group w a mutlimeter. If the bms is outside of the shrink wrap, u can use the pins in the jst connector to check.
Do u have a multimeter?
Luckily it is outside and I do have a multimeter and know how to use it
So I measure each cell p group voltage?
They should be same level normally, right?
If not I know that’s an issue(?)
Anyway, the battery drops from its max 33/34V to 32V and lower in a few minutes of standby
Each group should ideally have relatively close to the same voltage, yes.
Is the bms accessible without taking the shrink off?
Yup, it is… I’ll take the enclosure off and check the voltages and get back to you!
I think the voltages add up, so the pinout is:
GND - 4.12V - 8.24V - 12.36V - 16.17V - 20.29V - 24.41V - 28.52V - 28.60V - 28.70V- 32.81V
These are 10 pins which makes sense for a 10S / 36V battery.
I assume that the 28.60V and the 28.70V p group are dead, since their relative voltage must >0.1V when connected in series.
So since I have 10s3p I need to replace these 6 cells, right?
Is it possible to replace individual cells after they were welded? If so, I think I’ll ask @Acido if he could do me the favor
Looks like you’ve got 2 dead groups. Cells measure as follows based on your readings from the pins:
- 4.12v
- 4.12v
- 4.12v
- 3.81v
- 4.12v
- 4.12v
- 4.11v
- 0.08v
- 0.10v
- 4.11v
How many cycles on the battery?
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Don’t really know… Any way to tell? If you don’t count in the on / off charging for a few days to see if they balance out… Pretty sure it’s less than 100 
perhaps 50 cycles?
Can you simply replace dead p groups?
How would one remove them? They’re spot welded with a nickel(?) strip… Is it possible to replace these particular groups?
You can replace groups in a newer battery but anything over about 10 cycles makes that dangerous and highly not recommended.
Also, don’t try to charge or use ur pack anymore. It’s now a fire hazard.
In addition, you should disconnect it from anything drawing even a small amount of power like ur esc. The pack should be discharged outside and disposed of. Sorry bro 
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Why that?
How come? Since they would have slightly higher capacity than the “old” cells? Is that the issue?
I think I read something about never connecting batteries with the same voltage but different capacities…
Lots of reasons. Capacity differences, IR differences. If u want to replace the p-groups you would have to find used cells w comparable capacity and IR which would involve deconstruction of ur current pack (a PITA and dangerous), capacity testing all of your healthy cells, testing IR (accurate equipment is expensive- see recent battery forum posts on the subject). Then, you would need to source used cells of the same brand, model and approx age, test capacity and IR to approx match the healthy cells from your pack. Then you would need to use something like this (https://www.repackr.com/) to reconfigure and rebuild your pack.
It’s possible but it’s dangerous, time consuming and you would need a high degree of battery building knowledge to pull it off.
Time and money is better spent on a new pack. If u want to keep the healthy cells for flashlights or wtv u cann pull the pack apart but again, see above.
Those groups can’t hear shit no matter how loud you yell at them
2 Likes