Hoyt did a 3-pack design in the EL2 where all 3 packs were flight safe, but combined to make a 10s3p board.
Hi
I have invited my friend to our community and I’m going to help him with his first thane board.
Goals are pretty simple: 30 km/20 mi range, pretty fun to ride, carve and so on, 40 km/h / 25 mph top. (Don’t worry i will cut down his settings to slow him down for the first time 
)
He is a bit tight on money, so my thought is single belt driven 6374 is cheaper for what you get over the dual 6354/dual 5045 or whatever.
Vesc is maytech 4.12 I have laying around. Pretty trustworthy thingy.
12s2p p42a to power the whole thing.
Any suggestions now to make a better “welcome to esk8ing” setup? Maybe 10s3p?
I would personally avoid single wheel drive, imo the bit more you pay for 2wd is worth the better braking performance and lack of torque steer.
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Cannot argue, that’s what i told him yesterday.
In this case, what motor size to pick? He is like 70 kg/150lbs. Terrain is flat, only 7 hills in the whole city
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What’s his budget?
With flat terrain, I’d save on motors by getting something like 6355s or even direct drive if he’s down for DKP trucks.
Additionally, a well set up set of decent hub motors can be both fun and budget friendly.
I find motors aren’t the expensive part of the BOM, in my experience that’s the Battery, then the ESC, then the drivetrain.
I personally skimped on the battery for my current build, and doing math for the drivetrain is showing me some sad range numbers.
~400$.
In my current build, its battery (35%) > motors (25%) > vescs (15%) = mounts & trucks (15%)
True. We will think over it. Thank you.
I’m finding myself in need of a new soldering iron…
Pinecil or TS101?
they both have all the features I’m looking for and similar downsides.
I don’t have any spare tips for either one so it’s not like I have an ecosystem to maintain.
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They are incredibly similar and I think they use the same tips but the Pinecil is a lot cheaper. PINECIL – Smart Mini Portable Soldering Iron (Version 2) - PINE STORE
I use a TS100 and I can vouch for it I’ve abused it and it’s been bulletproof. You can turn up the voltage which increases the power a lot because more current flows too, 28V is decent and hot in approx 6 seconds, apparently as much as 32v is ok.
The Ralim OS mod is great, it mainly lets you turn the temperature up to 450C instead of 400C.
Afaik some pinecils come with it and TS101 needs to be upgraded to it. If you want to use a TS101 with the Ralim firmware try get it from somewhere more reliable than Amazon or AliExpress bc there is a higher chance they use an inferior chip that doesn’t work with the mod properly.
Lastly check FPV stores like unmannedtech, racedayquads or getfpv they often have irons and some nice accessories.
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Yeah that’s what drew me to the ts101. I owned a ts100 and had iron OS on it
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I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CRTV7XYF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Partially because i already have a bunch of the tips i like for it. Works great so far on 20v dewalt batteries. I need to make a longer more flexible power cord for it though as the on in the kit is 10% shorter than i like
Case i had lying around and isn’t the one it came with
I need to shorten these phase wires a good bit, anyone know the best way to solder onto this?
It has enamel on it, the motor wires in the coils are extended basically. Some people say to scrape off the enamel but I think that’s only doable with the single strand wire.
Should I hit it with a blowtorch to burn off the enamel and then solder onto the copper?
Thank you in advance
This has always worked for me, just don’t torch any silicone you’re not willing to cut off.
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If you don’t need the same portability those offer, have a look at the ksger t12. About 55$ on aliexpress but tips are 3-5$ only. Great iron to work with, goes up to 480C (if you use it that high often you need to take good care of the tips though).
The station part (which is pretty small btw) is bulletproof, if you ever need to replace the tip holder part that’s 3-5$.
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Using a blowtorch worked for me
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If you’ve got DC adapters floating around, you can get them even cheaper. Even purchasing the adapter separately, the price is comparable, but I bought this QUICKO DC24V T12-942 Soldering Iron Digital Soldering Station Adjustable temperature Autosleep/Auto power-off/one-key boost Comes with soldering tip (K tip)（Power supply not included） - Amazon.com because I already had some 24 V wall warts sitting around. It will actually function on a large range of adapters and just limit power AFAIK, but I had a 24 V 4 A from a filament dryer already.
Edit: Also, I haven’t done it, but I imagine it would be quite easy to make a portable kit with this and a battery. I know it’s supposed to function on 18 V, so powertool batteries could work. I think it even functions on 12 V at lower power.
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I can also vouch for this iron, I’ve had one for a couple years now and it’s been excellent.
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I know this is probably a dumb question, but could I just solder a 4mm bullet connector inside a 5.5mm connector? Like this? Or should I just cut off the 5.5mm bullets entirely and replace with the 4mms…? Initially I thought that 5.5 was more universal but I see that most motors use the smaller 4mm’s
You technically ‘can’ but the better solution would be to just replace them.
Alternatively, I’m sure I’ve seen places that make ‘adapters’ that are just the bullets soldered together
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Ok, I guess I’ll just take them completely off, it just seems simpler to do that 
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