Just get a JST kit and put the right header on. The wires are labeled on the vesc.
That pic also tells you the wire order.
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should work.
the 3 pins on the receiver -, +, s ( black, red, white)
go to the 3 pins on the pwm input of the go-foc. circled blue in in your pic. also -, +, s from left to right. so the colors written out in blue are in the wrong order? maybe that was the confusion. they are labeled above on the go-foc
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Recnetly bought some parts for a new build. Came with 4x MBS hubs - i think theyre Primos? Only have 3 tyres though and 3 inner tubes. The hubs measure at 4 inches largest diameter and the tyres inflated diameter is about 8 inches. The tyres currently on say “2.80/2.50-4”. What tyres will fit these hubs and does anyone have any reccomendations? And how can i find correct inner tubes?
I used a similar setup for a while (fair warning it’s exactly as obnoxious as you’d expect to have such a big remote for esk8)
Yeah, you’ll just need a JST2.0 crimping kit, then crimp the little pins onto the other side of the receiver wire so that it fits into the VESC, line up the pins for +, -, and PWM (might be labeled ppm on the RC receiver) From there you can use it like any other esk8 remote.
yeah I know it will be very obnoxious, but it’s either setting this up only costimg my sanity, or it is pay the insane import costs of norway. But thank you very much
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it’s obnoxious but numerous SRB riders do it and they’re fine.
I personally don’t like it and don’t do it. 
(tito GT2B mod instead)
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maybe this thread helps?
there’s dims in there on some of the stuff.
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I’m currently trying to make a decision that I don’t really feel informed enough to make.
My MTB (12S 60D+ 205kv reacher 6485) is currently on FW5.3 and working reliably on VSS, unfortunately VSS on my setup has the negative symptoms of every other control type. It beeps like HFI, needs sensor wires (temp, 5v, and ground I think), and stutters like it’s sensorless. VSS makes all these issues less noticeable but combines them all. It’s still plenty rideable with a hip flick to get rolling. But it’d be much more pleasant without these symptoms.
The decision I’m struggling with is whether to update to FW6+ and try new HFI modes or just stick with the age old "don’t fuck with a functional board)
I know @Shadowfax has done some testing on the 60D+ are you able to give some perspective on how common cogging is on your SHFI setup compared to older HFI or straight sensorless?
Maybe somebody has a horror story that might discourage me from updating?
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Im a huge fan of dont f with working fw… unless you NEED to. in this case vss is ass but hfi and shfi seem only marginally better. These are those reachers with the cut sensors or are the sensors failed? Might be a good off season project though - i know my list of to do items this winter is growing quickly.
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Still trying to get my SKP motors set up and running into another new problem this time with braking.
Was testing them out today and found that when I am moving at high speed and try to brake, I only get about -20A no matter how far I hold my throttle wheel back until I hit roughly ~15mph and then the negative amps will start to correctly scale to how far my potentiometer is held back.
This makes for very soft braking when I am at high speed so I hold the wheel back more, then when I get down to 15mph the wheels essentially lock up, throwing me off.
Here are my Vesc tool settings for current and throttle curve. Anyone run into this problem? Any settings I am missing here?
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I caught this happening in some RT data logs.
I throttled up to max speed and pulled back all the way on the throttle wheel. Where the white arrow is pointing you can see it stays at very low braking amps for a bit before it fully brakes.
the batt current max regen of -5A looks suspect but i could be mistaken. glad you didnt get hurt with little brakes 
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Both sensors failed, they’re still plugged in so I figured why not try VSS, however I’ve come to the same conclusion as you.
Yeah, my partner is in Idaho for a week and I figure it’s as good a time as any to do some general “housekeeping” stuff that I’ve been putting off while I can use their board as a backup.
I’m okay with taking some time and having the board out of commission for a bit.
My real concern is if there’s any chance of causing damage to anything. I don’t know enough to gauge how likely I am to damage my vesc (or anything else) doing a FW change and experimenting other motor control stuff.
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Damn dude I think you got it, just changed it to -15amps and the braking amps look nice and linear now. My only thing is I really don’t want to be sending 15+ amps back into my battery as to not decrease its overall life. Am I being paranoid? or is there a way to have normal braking and also not send tons of amps into my pack?
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Short answer: probably yeah, a bit. (Battery dependent)
Long answer: charge limits for cells are set under the expectation of sitting at that current for much longer durations of time compared to the Regen braking we get on an esk8. While a molicel P42A can be charged at 4.2a for an hour straight without substantially damaging the cells according to their data sheet, they are likely to take substantially more during short bursts.
As far as I know we don’t necessarily have a great deal of data for just HOW much damage we do during short bursts of high Regen, but I’m under the impression it’s a substantially higher threshold for damage during 3-10 seconds of hard breaking than it is for an hour of charging.
I appreciate the explanation I didn’t know all that. I’m using a p45b 16S4P pack, on Molicel’s site it lists its max charge current at 13.5amps but I guess that’s continuous.
Do you have a recommendation for the current regen setting I choose here? What do you use if you don’t mind me asking?
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Kinda yeah, however molicel’s max charge ratings are generally determined using a temperature limit and having that monitored and current being throttled back when the cell reaches that temp. Still for a longer period of time than Regen braking but not a “true continuous” rating.
There’s also some math you gotta do here to get a good idea of limits, since we know that 13.5a is safe for the cells over a much longer duration than 10 seconds we can use that as a surefire safe limit per cell. And since whatever current you put into the battery will be distributed over each group of 4 cells in parallel you can multiply that current by 4. But still have to divide it by 2 again when considering you have 1 battery powering 2 motors/speed controllers.
13.5a x 4p =54a
54a / 2 motors = 27a per motor,
If braking power is still lacking I suspect you can bump those up a bit more but I would recommend talking to somebody who knows more than me before doing that.
I have a 12s7p and I think I’m running 30a/side, admittedly I can’t confidently remember, but I believe it’s between 4-10a/cell in parallel
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Went ahead and set it to -25 a/side and it works well. Thanks for the help!
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i thought i saw something! Hm…must’ve been the wind.
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Okay so I am trying to build a high performance longboard that can handle extreme off-road.
My budget is $6000, and i’m looking for a top speed of 40-50mph, and the range should be 25+ miles (not looking for too much range)
I’m trying to build a board that is based off of the Lacroix Nazare supersport, I like it’s design
Can I get some advice regarding this build? 
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