Yes, but it’s not all that deep. Twist them nicely and you’ll be a-ok
Yeah, the retail spec escs come with a pin header. So it slots right in no soldering reqd.
You should put something under it to support it. Esk8 vibrations won’t be friendly to those pins.
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The far end of receiver rests on a drop of E6000 on capacitor can
Thar CAN-KEY on /off switch, whats that do?
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Presumably disables internal canbus. Not something I’d click
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Ok, I’ll avoid it like I would an invitation to a swingers’s party, sent by Bill Gordon.
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Shudders in lemon party
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Leave a little room for when the capacitors explode. Actually, you can’t buy reputable caps in the same physical size with the same voltage rating either, which is interesting. This happened to a mate two weeks ago.
One of my boards has the same ESC. It’s been faulting on “over voltage” under load off the line when it’s cold more and more. Added 1000uF to the input, it’s working flawlessly again but I still don’t trust those caps to not explode…
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Interesting photo, thanks.
Why the little shards of acrylic on the other caps?
This controller will be my first venture into Vesc world, and my 10s2p battery it will be connected to, is only good for 30 amps, and my most powerful hub motors, are supposedly 400 watts each, so here’s hoping that in this situation the controller will not even be approaching its actual limits and be unstressed and reliable.
I do have plans for a more powerful build, and this controller might go in that, but in my 7 months of Esk8, I know plans can change wildly.
Plastic was old mates shrink that was still over it.
It will probably last forever at the settings you mention. The one in the photo was pushing two heavy blokes, a board and a bike up a hill off a 12s 33ah battery, and I’ve no idea their settings.
My one causing issues was also 12s but on a small board with only 24ah battery with motor current set to 80 amp. Either way the caps are definitely a weakness in that model and it’s likely why if you look at the current offerings, it’s been amended with larger caps.
My other problems with them could have been prevented. I didn’t used to use anti spark connectors on my batteries. Plugging the battery in caused me to destroy several MOSFETs in the integrated power on/off circuit. Ideally you want a preheater for replacing the FETs, but I managed by using two soldering irons simultaneously, in conjunction with the SMD hot air blower.
I did also work out that the FETs never failed if I had the power button plugged in and turned on when connecting the battery. I think the gates may have been floating enough for the the FETs to be half turned on when connecting the power, resulting in their destruction. Perhaps this is why the new model has more wires to the power button too, it’s possible they have changed that circuit but this, I don’t know.
Due to the new changes, I’ve gone against recommendations and bought another two flipskys for the next build. Two landed for NZ$600 is cheaper than other options.
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Replacing mosfets is far beyond my skills.
I do have an XT90s on my battery, and plan on using loopkey.
I cant get vesc tool to work on my ancient windows 7 laptop.
I downloaded the android app from the vesctool emailed link, and just get this message.
Some laptops simply won’t run vesctool. I faffed around with open gl and all sorts. Even went as far as installing Linux and tried with that too. Wasted days I could have been drinking, skating and biking. Believe me, I tried almost everything.
My advices is to only use the loopkeys and connectors with the precharge resistor. They have green bits amoungst the yellow. Also, plug the switch in and leave it turned on, or bridge the pins if you are to use a loopkey. But why not lust use the switch instead of a loopkey? I killed six MOSFETs over two ESC’s prior to realising why.
One of my ESC’s I jabbed at too hard and broke a crapacitor off it too. The photo below is the new model. Bigger caps, and some have a bigger footprint too.
The FSESC 6.6 was a gift, and came with no switch.
I do have some 4 wire switches, but they are not antispark
I use the XT90’s with precharge resistor on anything with a capacitor.
I’m perusing the stash of computers in the closet, but I got to go food shop and cook dinner for the Fam.
24 years ago, I spent 9 months traveling NZ as a surf bum in a Nissan C20 van.
Good memories
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The switches that turn it on and off aren’t anything special. There’s about five or six FETs underneath, and the capacitors are on the downstream side of the FETs. That’s why if they are biased in their linear state during connecting the power, they burn out. If the switch is turned on, it doesn’t seem to happen.
24 years ago? I’ve rebuilt the same type of bike as I was riding back then, mostly everywhere on my back wheel.
The resistors in xt90s are very small and with high voltage they still allow a big surge. I have some qs plugs with custom high resistance I’m selling 10$. A bit bigger than xt-90. 15 ohm.
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It looks like the casing is rubbing on my motors, there’s very little resistance added albeit a noticeable amount if you’re turning by hand.
Do I have to take the motor entirely apart and file/sand down the can or is it okay to leave it if I’m alright with the noise.
I imagine it’s an interference problem that will fix itself over enough miles but I would definitely appreciate a second opinion before I ride on it.
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why has that gap closed?
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I’m pretty confident it’s due to one of the many imperfections from impacts on the can, it hasn’t taken any substantial impact since it was last opened so I suspect the edge of the can was deformed by a rock at some point
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doesn’t look like much gap. deformed i’d expect something Irregular with some gap somewhere.
no gap I think something like bell moving on the shaft or something else letting it go further than it would have. (crushed washer,… something)
but… idk. just guessing.
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