Thanks! ill update tonight
A couple quick questions,
First does vesc tool calculate remaining battery percentage from the capacity imputed during setup or the voltage per cell?
Second what’s a good soft voltage cut off for p42a? currently have it set at 3.4 per cell wondering if i can lower it to 3.
Thanks.
HAPPY NEW YEAR 
Loopkey.
Is it used in place of an on/off switch, in in addition to it?
Roll to start, does this negate the need for a loopey/antispark switch?
If one were solucky as to find a pair of OG focboxes in their mailbox, and were wondering how best set up their new enclosure, should one plan on a loopkey or is an xt90s off the battery, by itself, all that is needed?
Loop key is a fail safe. Use it to make sure the board is 100% off, no parasitic drains and no need to open and unplug the battery. I have one on my roll to start boards so they don’t use battery when in a car trumk or my kids are just pushing them around the house. They can be used instead of a button in many setups also.
Imho the smaller the battery the more you want to kill any parasitic drain. Others will know more about old school foc boxes and their requirements more than me
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Halp! Getting throttle cut outs and I can’t seem to isolate the cause. I thought i was having carbon fiber Faraday cage syndrome, but I mounted my receiver on the top of the deck and still got the same issues. Tested with three different remotes in three different configurations: 50mm ppm, 200mm with antenna outside enclosure, 400mm and receiver on top of my deck in a plastic bag. I did this with the vx4, zmote, and puck
My setup is a skp solo dual currently but i have also run this with a makerx d100s though i cant confirm that the cutout i had with the d100s wasn’t a different issue.
I have the 5v from 1 solo feeding my can which has 2 solos, megan, ennoid xlite v3). Fw is 6.2
Ive gone over my settings and they seem fine, im not doing anything strange. 6485 reachers with the sensors on foc. Just did motor detection until it got a good one and then set my amps to 70 motor -60 brake, absolute 175amps. Battery 40 -30 regen. Set my fault time to 80ms and slow abs fault
Did the wizard for each remote, smart reverse with 15% duty cycle, and kept the puck dead zone trimmed to 8% as that’s what felt good on my other ride. Puck got +5% to the throttle curve but the vx4 and zmote were set to -20 to smooth everything out until i get a feel for the board.
Im gonna start pulling devices off the can and going to swap the ppm/pwm input from one solo to the other but im kinda stuck and doing know whats going on.
No faults ever show up and all the remotes think they stay connected. Test it by just holding supper steady at 17-19mph until it drops out to no throttle. I hold the throttle position and iron leg for when it comes back so it shows on the logs as a trapezoid motor amp to zero. You can see 6 on my metr log here for a 4 mile run.
My plan is to swap my pwm to the other solo, test, pull a can device, test, pull the other, test, have barber try to fix my new stress induced bald patch then sell the parts.
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Hmm that’s a weird one but it sounds like you’re doing the right steps to isolate the issue. Have you checked all the wiring connections? First by hand just to make sure you can’t replicate the cutout by wiggling wires around.
When it cuts out, it looks like it’s not braking, just going unresponsive? Definitely sounds like a remote cutout but on 3 different remotes would be wild unless the receiver connection itself is the culprit. That’s where I’d put my eggs.
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With the VX4 were running it as PPM only, UART + PPM, or UART only?
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Ive checked that everything is connected and used hot glue on all the connectors to try and keep it all secure. I haven’t replaced anything except the receiver connection to the ppm/pwm - that i have remade twice
It’s going unresponsive, though I haven’t tried doing anything crazy like full throttle/brake during a cutout for obvious reasons except the first time I experienced it where i tried to brake and it kicked the board out from under me because I wasn’t ready for what it was doing
I initially tried the vx4 in uart only, then ppm/pwm and uart, then ppm only. Then i tried the puck, and then i tried the zmote, then vx4. This was all on the makerx. Ive been doing all the testing in ppm mode since the switch to the solos so maybe trying uart on the vx4 needs to get added to the list as well now as I forgot about that option 
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Yeah I’m just curious if it’s maybe something up with the PWM signal
Ya, right now my intuition is saying get everything off of the 5v from the solos and get a shield cable for the pwm except there is no good way i see to tie the shield to ground i can see
ABOUT HEATSHRINKING LIPOS
I’ve tried to use Polyolefin Heatshrink Tubes, as founded in Turnigy Panther Lipos, but you have yo apply a lot of heat (100-125°C) to make them shrink, and I’m worried about damaging the lipos by heating them too much!
Do you guys on use PVC Heatshrink Tubes for Lipos, as they require less heat (80°C)?
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Anyone had an issue with LLT Smart BMS and xiaoxiang app where you can’t get p group readings or voltage diff on the app? I’ve been able to get p group readings many times before this, but cannot now even though nothing with the board has changed. Tried reinstalling the app too but no change.
Sounds like youve tested/changed everything but the motors. If you have good bullets(no banana bs) and well soldered, I’d be side eyeing the motors.
Well fsr i cant find a setting so my logs will show ppm input - just learned that that is a thing . but my voltage and temp readings on the metr log look super weird - very spiky
This ride I moved my pwm input to the second vesc and all can devices and the button are fed from the 5v on the other vesc. I also redid the can splice - it was jstph male and female connections — now it is jstph pcb mounted connectors with jumpers to each device. Got significantly less cutouts but i did have two events near the end of my ride where i lost throttle &breaks for a second. Going to remove the can devices starting with the bms for my next trick.
I can’t tell but i was getting 2 cutouts a mile and now i got one in 10miles but only at higher speeds i wonder if my 5v is browning out or something? Le sigh
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Those little temp spikes do seem a bit odd seeing as though its moth motors and esc with little spikes at the same time.
Sucks dude. By process of elimination, ya shouldnt be to far from sorting it hopefully 
Im fighting to slam as much troubleshooting and testing between monsoons here lol, i swear if i had 5 straight days of dry weather since October id have it sorted out by now. Might be clear tomorrow for another test if i can also have the free time 
The 5v rail in solo is only good for about 1amp, i dont think you have an exsess of devices but ive never put a bms on the solo 5v, i would start there
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I did a search, but much to my surprise, I only saw one of my own posts come up.
I think your issue is a poor electrical connection on a JST connector.
I have inspected, and dismissed far too many connectors as potential gremlins/culprits, and wasted hours searching elsewhere eliminating everything else, only to find it was the connector all along.
I meanni took it apart, bklew on it twice, reseated it twice for good measure, better than new right?
Wrong, so very very wrong.
Get some Caig Deoxit D5.
It has no equal.
D100 is the full strength version, a bit overkill for most things.
I take D5 a bit further with the mini dental brushes inside the sockets. Wipe the d5’d bristles on a clean white napkin, and they often show grey.
The pins, I use precision swabs soaked in D5, and the previously perfect looking tinned still turns the swab grey, but now the tin looks like polished silver contacts, and the connector reseats buttery smooth.
Micro B usb charge/ data ports on the phone, suddenly the connector seats with a click, like when new, and it charges fast again.
My micro SDHC card, which suddenly failed, a bit of D5, and all my music and photos suddenly returned.
The Map and TPS and 02 sensor connectors on my 30 year ld vehicle, that i had cleaned with CRC QD electronics cleaner, and which looked pristine, turned pink D5’d swabs black, and vehicle felt like I took 500 lbs out of it afterwards.
Roadies swear by all the Caig DeOxit products.
They have some all in one kits, with a multitude of their products within.
Douche your JST pins and sockets with D5, use the brushes and swabs to assist oxidation removal. The deOxit Shield S5 product is supposed to not only prevent oxidation reoccuring, but in time reduces the existing resistance within the connector, but keep it off silicone wire insulation as it has swollen and softened some of the accordion boots inside my vehicle’s waterproof connections at transmission.
This shit is magic electrical juice.
Any weird intermittent issues need this stuff applied to any and all connectors first.
Any connector assumed to be ‘just fine’ and dismissed as the issue is akin to shooting oneself in the foot.
I can’t believe there are not a thousand hits when putting Caig Deoxit in the forum search bar
No other contact cleaner comes close.
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Next test will have nothing on the can except the two solos, then ill add the megan and ennoid back separately if i can get a clean 10miles in
Ive made so many but never had any connectivity issues so long as the connector fits well and isn’t loose or able to vibrate free.
Im going to go crazy on can cable v3 as there did seem to be improvement. Shit is getting soldered (@b264 made me think of this) tpi is usually only about 3-4 but I can’t get any better with 22awg silicone wire, and im gonna hit it with some of that contact cleaner too because why not. Also instead of using a contact block/splice block to plug in jumpers from each device i am going to make a splitter with connectors for each device to reduce the number of connectors by half
The soldering is ridiculous 
Edit: Curve is an artifact of the crappie scope, connector isn’t deformed or over crimped - jus a little fish eye to my lens
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