Would you consider it a problem that i only flashed bootloader on the right side of the esc using the “all” option. I went for my first ride it was suprisingly cooperative.
I checked both sides and they say they same firmware version, just trying to avoid detection again.
I’ve personally had problems with using ALL not actually writing to both, but if both are the same version and the board rides fine, you’re most likely good
I just discovered this… I renamed the secondary esc before reflashing ALL and a few days later while still on the bench it started to randomly turn itself off and disconnect from the remote… When I turned everything back on and ran detection I noticed the secondary changed its name back to the original number… I turned everything off and haven’t messed with it much since then because I figured it was going to be rabbit hole… But I have a feeling not flashing the bootloader and fw for each side individually is the culprit.
I woulda renamed after but you got me curious. Ill consider flashing to each seperately just had a wicked pain getting through foc detection.
I did make sure each side was seperate before i finalized the programing.
Idk seems like fish is in the air lmao
This happened to me on the solos too when I forgot to flash bootloader first
FOC detection should be very very simple if its working right
I re-named the secondary for a different reason… But I feel your pain…
Idk, the fw screens can look like both sides are correct, but if there was a problem with the bootloader then you’re probably going to continually get weird stuff popping up
Can the firmware be done using the “all” button or do i need to do that seperate as well. Thanks for the heads up though ill get er right next time the weather is decent
I always advise separate due to issues I’ve seen using ALL before
In simple terms for me to understand lol
Can anyone explain the relationship of the following and how it’s used.
I know voltage affects motor speed
Battery amps is the draw from the battery to the controller but what is that used for
And motor phase amps
Example how does changing phase amps change the motor? Less amps is less torque I think, would speed also be reduced by phase amps or speed remains due to voltage the same.
Does the battery amps just pass through the controller just pwm to the motor?
If I had high battery amps setting and low phase amps what would happen and vice versa?
The controller will only draw current from the battery based on what the motor current setting would allow or the motor would draw?
Motor amps relates to low speed torque.
Battery amps relates to high speed torque.
Your esc is just a big converter requesting power from the battery and delivering it to the motors.
So a typical take off from a standstill will spike your motor amps right away but then will taper off as battery amps takes over to meet the power requirement being demanded.
Ok another question, volts x motor amps = kw? And kw is the power output of the motor correct?
So regardless of motor size if you use the same volt and same amps you get the same power output?
Obviously a tiny motor would be working it’s ass off and a big motor would be easy, but you would have the same measurable power output?
Volts x Battery amps 
Are we still finding flipsky smart antispark switches acceptable?
I used the pro version and it failed immediately. Search told me the smart version is the one I want
@3DServisas for the vx3 vx4 throttle have you tested it in the cold? I’m having issues with it getting stuck while it’s freezing to 40 f out. Works fine once back inside though which is why I’m thinking it’s a cold issue
You try remembering arbitrary names when you’ve been in constant pain for 20 days straight 
Left the remote out for less than 10 minutes and the throttle is getting stuck. So it is 100% an issue with it being sort of cold outside
If that remote uses a potentiometer for throttle, get yourself a can of this stuff, and spray it down the shaft and work the throttle and brake and spray it at the ends and middle ranges of travel.
It’s ridiculously effective.
It uses a metal spring. I originally thought the shell was blocking the throttle this morning since it can hold the throttle in place too.
I didn’t think such a small spring would be so affected by a little cold air (but I do know that temp changes affect metal and thus springs in general). Even more so when I wear a heated glove liner on the hand that holds the remote so it is kept warmer than the temp outside + wind chill.
I’m in TX and there is no true winter here so I might just make sure to keep it in my pocket at all times because switching to the old throttle would be a pain in the ass. Or I will switch it anyway since the issues with it aren’t as dangerous as the throttle getting stuck
It’s almost certainly not the spring itself, but whatever mechanical bits the sprint is acting on. Either the plastic is shrinking and causing something to bind up, or the grease that’s probably in there somewhere is thickening up too much for the spring to overcome.
Yesterday, I drove with VX4 when the temperature outside was 17.6°F, and there were no problems at all.
Maybe you bad install the thumbwheel in the remote case, it is stuck somewhere.
IC Operating temperature -40F to 257F .