Yeah I think this is a big part of why we were confused. 8s is not 36V. Pack voltages are specified as either max voltage when fully charged, or nominal voltage at mid charge. 10s is 42V fully charged (10x4.2) and 36V nominal (10x3.6)
Because the voltage is unclear (especially when the ebike crowd come in with their nonsense voltages), we don’t tend to use them to identify batteries that often unless the context would make it very clear. S count is much less ambiguous. So “36V” is assumed to mean “10S pack at nominal voltage”, because 36 doesn’t divide evenly by 4.2, and cannot refer to an 8S pack. It could possibly refer to a different chemistry while fully charged but that would be even more unusual. What did you mean by 36V? Did you measure the pack voltage and it’s currently at 36, or does a sticker on the pack say 36, or did it come as part of a product that called it 36V?
it is a 36V battery, that is what it is sold as and measured at, but as I said, I’m not good at identifying batteries. So, I thought an 8S battery was one where it had 8 cells in one clump and the P number is the amount of clumps.
I was considering doing that, but as someone who doesn’t know very much about VESC I was hesitant to unplug the one way I had of turning the board on or off. As I mentioned above in a reply to Evwan, Mario suggested making sure to use the custom 6.0.2. firmware from Makerx which seemingly fixed the problem as the power switch actually responds based on the setting written to the VESC. Thanks for the suggestion though, it’s appreciated.
Okay so took my board out for a test. Seems to be running good motor wise. I putted around at about 7 mph and didn’t crash so that’s always good lol.
It seems to be really wobbly which I am sure is a combination of my lack of experience and practice. I was wondering if there was a way to adjust channel trucks so that they aren’t as loose? I am hoping it will help my inexperience if it’s harder for me to cause wobble by improper weight shifting if that makes sense.
Did you balance those wheels? Earlier in your thread I Mentioned those trucks unfortunately aren’t the best and you’ll have a better time if you pick out something a bit better to replace them. Springs aren’t the best for stability either.
As for what you can do without switching trucks. De-wedge the back one(take the angled riser out). The back truck doesn’t need to turn if you want higher stability. Or you can also look for a way to wedge it at a lower angle to keep some quick turnability.
On the bottom of the trucks there should be two bolts holding the bushings/springs down all the way tight. On the top of the baseplate(you’ll have to take the trucks off, there should be two bolts you use to tighten/loosen your bushings/springs some amount.
Depends on what you’re looking for. I assume you want to keep larger, pneumatic tires, especially to avoid clearance issues. So you have to make sure to get trucks with a long enough axle to support the wheel hubs+pulley(if it has a bearing). So make sure the axle is long enough to support your wheel before purchase.
Also, I don’t think those bearings are removable from those flipsky hubs, so if you keep using them, make sure the axle is the same width as anything else you buy.
Last thing, those motors are very large for esk8 standards. You’ll have to make sure the trucks are wide enough to hold 63100 motors and still have your motor pulley/pinion orientated where you want it. Plus, those motor mounts won’t work with pretty much any other truck.
So you’ll need new trucks+motor mounts+possibly belts(motor may be orientated further/closer on new mounts) +maybe wheels.
If you want to keep the mtb style channel trucks, mbs is a great, more budget friendly option. If you want something more traditional, boardnamics are a good budget option. If you want something higher end, stooge 3-links are by far my favorite but they’re more for racing/high speed and overkill for what you need
Plus, expensive and I think you’ll have a hard time with compatibility with that deck. Everyone says savage1 trucks are great too, but he’s kinda out of the picture for the time being. Some other brands to look at are 3dservisas, moon esk8, newbee, hoyt, and bioboards.
Hello everyone. Got a board with two trampa vesc 6mk5. When I first got the board, I paired them to my iPhone, as well as my iPad at the time. A few months ago I traded in my iPhone lost the ability to pair. I was able to connect for a short time through the iPad, but no longer via Bluetooth. I was told to reconnected with USB cable and I should’ve been able to regain access unfair if necessary and then repair, but I am unable to make a connection even with the cable please advise.
I need a 120ohm resistor, this measures out to 118 (close enough)
Assuming I insulate this bundle with liquid tape, is this an okay method to put resistors in series? Is there a better way? It’s for a canbus twisted pair.
