“King missle”… more like bum dart
Anyone know the module of the 3ds eco drive gears. My pinions are beat and dont want to pay 100$ for 2 pinions…
The 3ds eco drives use module 2.0 gears in their drivetrain.
Roger, very much appreciated.
What do about the slot in the hub for valve stems with slightly widened tires?
I can put a 1/4-20 washer over the stem so it’s supported, would that be better than this?
BKB 150mm on Trampa Superstar with custom 5mm spacer kit
So I was under the impression that 3.2v per cell was the minimum cutoff voltage for lipo batteries, I stumbled across this
cutoff end 44.52V is 3.71v per cell isn’t it? I’ve had mine set to End at 40.2v why is it that lipo’s are supposed to have such a conservative cutoff?
LiPo batteries are heavily optimized towards maximum performance, and one of the things that gets neglected/reduced in the pursuit of that performance, is cycle life. The cells tend to not last as many cycles before experiencing noticeable degradation.
One of the things that you can do to avoid this is to not charge the battery as fully, and not to discharge it as far. So instead of going with 4.20 and 2.50 volts (common datasheet numbers for Li-ion and LiPo cells), only going down to 3.2 or even 3.7V/cell should help make your batteries last longer.
It’s all a tradeoff though, because setting super-conservative cutoffs means you have less effective capacity/usable energy to work with, for a given size of battery. It’s just a judgement call you have to make, whether you want all the range now, or all the cycles later, or somewhere in between.
I’m after recommendations/experience on ideal race board setups.
Not sure if this is allowed but can input be put on my thread for ease of me finding it? If this is a breach of rules then posting here be great too.
Link to my thread…
There’s a whole thread on this, but the TL;DR is that if you run your lipo down that far, you’ll very likely be buying new lipos in short order.
I wouldn’t run lipo below 3.71V/cell. Even if you wanted to, you’ll get almost no increase in range by doing so, and increase the risk factor many times over. So it’s all “cons” and no “pros”.
I’m glad I have yet to go on a long ride with my lipo pack, I came from an RC background where it’s very normal to discharge lipos till 3.2v per cell and cycle life is rarely mentioned outside of one battery brand performing better than another. I’ll set my LVC higher today when I do motor detection for my new motors, thank you for the explanation.
What kind of clearances have y’all gotten away with on a street build?
10mm belt clearance
Oh I guess I should clarify, ground clearance
that’s what i meant, ground to lowest non wheel part of my board was 10mm to my belt
Damn nice and no issues on turning?
no? i don’t see how that would affect turning, only issue i run into is that torque is too punchy that i need to slow down on the throttle
~6.75" for me as the max clearance I’ve managed on my street build. Could probably safely go higher if I wanted to but that height is already extreme compared to other builds on here
One day i might put together an extra tall build just because I can
My board was around 2” from ground to bottom of my enclosure before I printed a couple spacers. Was fine for regular riding but would scrape on speed bumps.
I guess it doesn’t matter for belts but as you lean into a turn things get closer to the ground, like bottom mounted enclosures.
Lol yeah both my builds scrape atm. My hub board being the lowest at 1.5”
Crap, I answered wrong. 6.75" is the deck height but my battery is about 2 inches below that. So my actual clearance is probably around 4.5" give or take .25"
I have had a few close calls with the really cheap speed bumps that are tall but not very wide. They felt close to hitting the middle of my deck but missed it. Both enclosures didn’t come close to hitting it though since they’re not in the middle.