Thanks! My 12s4p 40t can do in theory 120A, but I wouldn’t go higher than 100A. For my Xenith, I should use battery current 50A for each side, am I right? Since it acts as a dual vesc
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Yep, motor and battery settings act like this:
So each side of the esc gets full motor settings and half battery
*focbox unity specific FW (not vesc branches) are the only outlier to this
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Effectively yes that’s a good comparison, it’s not a million miles from a buck converter because it’s a pulsed higher voltage DC input fed through a large inductive load
The effective voltage that it gets “reduced” to is determined by the speed. Spinning motors generate a back voltage opposing the input that goes up with speed, at 0 speed there’s 0 voltage so basically anything will make it spin but you’ve gotta go up and up from there. See what @Venom121212 said for the overview of how current behaves
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Just soldered the balance wires for the first time! Should I put some hot glue onto the joints? (there was some originally, black. Scraped it off by hand and blade)
If yes, should I look for a specific hot glue cartridge or will a regular clear one work?
This is one reason why we want Professor Shartsis back.
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He got too deep for his audience.
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Nice! 
Covering the balance wires is a good idea. Black hot glue tends to be stronger than clear. You can also use silicone adhesive (get that stuff that’s not corrosive to electronics, very important)
I have a question about my VX2 remote.
I drive quite often in the inner city for commute and my VX2 will sometimes lose signal. It happens usually once every 4 hours or so. So it isnt super critical but it makes me feel less safe on the board especially when accelerating.
Sometimes the cutoff will be very quick - 0.5 second to reconnect and itll continue thr same throttle.
Sometimes itll fully disconnect and I will have to let go of the throttle before I can accelerate.
I have also noticed how the remote will disconnect somrtimes when I hold the remote and phone very close to each other (when checking GPS). Just recently, Ive begun to turn off wifi on my phone and it seems to have had an effect - I dont disconnect as often when having remote and phone too close (I havent tested this more than a few days so I am not sure yet).
The issue is that I have been using a crappy Hobbywing remote from Verreal for many months with very very rare disconnects. I trusted that remote a lot and my friends still ride it - one friend has ridden 2000km with less rhan 5 disconnects (he claims).
The disconnects were super bad at one point but got a ton better when I changed the wires with new ones.
So: is the VX2 too sensitive for where I am riding? If so, which remotes with km/hr display is suitable for city driving?
RF interference is common in urban setting and is usually the cause of cutouts. There are certain remotes that have stable connections basically in any environment. The hoyt puck is rock solid, but does not have any info or telemetry of any kind. The new VX1 pro is reportedly very stable and has lights that display battery charge. The VX4 uses the same wireless module as the VX1 and has some telemetry built in as well. There were some problems w the firmware on the VX4 but I think they have been resolved w an update.
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yes, but surely there are cheap option than meepo?
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Question about UART remotes, used with metr’s and flexiBMS’. Is there a way I can have all three pieces of cake and eat em too?
Just bought a voyager on a whim. The build will have a metr and flexiBMS for sure. Is there a way to connect them all with a duel vesc setup? I know I should know haha, but it’s been a minute since I built a dual setup, let alone with all the new telemetry devices…
Remote on one side, metr and flexi via usplit on the other side
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Hey guys!
My board stood around for quite some time sadly.
The battery pack is a 10S3P from Acido that served me well.
However, it won’t charge past 33/34V anymore 
I left it hooked up to the charger for days and it repeatedly charged but would always shut off shortly afterwards, as if the battery was fully charged already.
Is this battery dead? :(((
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Unless you have a smart bms there’s no way to tell what’s going on unless you open the pack up and measure each p-group w a mutlimeter. If the bms is outside of the shrink wrap, u can use the pins in the jst connector to check.
Do u have a multimeter?
Luckily it is outside and I do have a multimeter and know how to use it
So I measure each cell p group voltage?
They should be same level normally, right?
If not I know that’s an issue(?)
Anyway, the battery drops from its max 33/34V to 32V and lower in a few minutes of standby
Each group should ideally have relatively close to the same voltage, yes.
Is the bms accessible without taking the shrink off?
Yup, it is… I’ll take the enclosure off and check the voltages and get back to you!
I think the voltages add up, so the pinout is:
GND - 4.12V - 8.24V - 12.36V - 16.17V - 20.29V - 24.41V - 28.52V - 28.60V - 28.70V- 32.81V
These are 10 pins which makes sense for a 10S / 36V battery.
I assume that the 28.60V and the 28.70V p group are dead, since their relative voltage must >0.1V when connected in series.
So since I have 10s3p I need to replace these 6 cells, right?
Is it possible to replace individual cells after they were welded? If so, I think I’ll ask @Acido if he could do me the favor
Looks like you’ve got 2 dead groups. Cells measure as follows based on your readings from the pins:
- 4.12v
- 4.12v
- 4.12v
- 3.81v
- 4.12v
- 4.12v
- 4.11v
- 0.08v
- 0.10v
- 4.11v
How many cycles on the battery?
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