I think the 22x10x7 bearings are more susceptible to failure. What do you guys think the best bearings in that size are?
Fasteddy 10x22x7 are the best ive found. The standard 10x22x6 are fragile and fail, even when made with metal cages ive managed to melt them.
2 Likes
I just use nachi bearings, imho stay away from ceramics and stainless as high chromium is corrosion resistant enough and way stronger.
Never run a bearing with a side load, if the spacer isn’t the right size and or it isn’t shimmed well enough that you can tighten the axle nut fully without any binding it needs attention and probably a .10c part and a little attention to detail will make the bearing outlast the tire. I don’t like 8mm axles for speed but I think the 608 are decent as long as they don’t have side loads beyond carving
I have had so many of the 6900 bearings go bad so fast if they have any side loading, I think there just isn’t enough meat on them to take abuse like the 608 donso for 10&12mm axles I prefer the 16100 and 6001 respectively just because they are bigger and more robust
Just my thoughts, not an expert
5 Likes
I think 22mm OD bearings are not the best choice for ESK8 especially with a 10mm ID. Yesterday I tried 28mm bearings. No weird sounds and they feel really solid. I can see even urethane wheels switching to larger bearings in the future.
4 Likes
Interesting. Could be something to do with the 3d servisas gear mounting connection to the wheel. Almost sounds like something was too tight somewhere for that bearing to be embedded like that. It’s generally just not possible unless it was pressed in somehow. It only take 1-2mm of offset between axle spacer and the back face of the gear to hub coupling / wheel adaptor. The nut will squeeze things together and can press the bearing into the plastic. Not possible on an alloy bearing seat however. The bearings noted NSK are super tough and would still handle the axial load as well as the plastic wheel being forgiving to a bearing seating tolerance issue for a short time however with the added load from the carving it was just to much and it failed. My question is how long did that gear assembly carry that exact wheel combo? If a long time , perhaps it was just a very, very old bearing…otherwise something is off. I would suggest changing to aluminum hubs for this board.
1 Like
Also for 608 bearing doubters here is a study I made using 608 NSK bearings. They have proven to be very capable even in this most extreme use case as I have documented. To this day this custom wheel set-up I personally designed and had CNC’d for my 4x4 Plutonium is one of my favourite boards to ride thanks to the wide wheels and ditching those terrible stock cheese cutters.
That all said, yes I think its better to go with the mountainboard bearings for obvious reasons, but it’s not always possible and sometimes prohibitively expensive to change the board over.
1 Like
Axial load on bearing is measured with a load centered on the axle which is not the case when the diameter of the wheel increase…
It causes alternative effort on the bearings and the bearing cages specially if the spacer is not perfectly fitted.
At the begining of the powerkite era (high axial loads + high milage), we discovered quicky that the 6900 bearing (10*22) were unable to resist. 28 mm OD bearings are much stronger.
I’s also important to increase the distance between bearings (40mm for a 8" wheel) to reduce the loads on the bearing due to the off-centered load.
During the esk8 era, wheels diameter have increased and it might be time to change the bearing design…
8 Likes
Very scary post.
Glad you are okay 
I used the standard NSK’s provided by Bioboards and they have proven solid despite everyone telling me otherwise…imagine… @mackann can probably tell us what the ABEC rating is on his stock bearings.
What Gen plutonium do you have? Does it have 3Ds gear drives?
Gen 1 3d gears 4x4
2 Likes
no need to imagine. This thread started off with a video of a 608 bearing catastrophically failing.
If you are restricted to using 608 bearings, might as well make it as safe as possible. Maybe you are lucky and you’re on the ABEC 1 NSK already.
Id say this thread speaks more to we need to do regular bearing checks and make sure axels are properly stacked much more than spending 8$ for a single skate bearing.
4 Likes
I’d like to see 6001 (12x28) and 16100 (10x28) become standard in esk8 for 150mm or larger pneumatics.
5 Likes
In that case likely the bearings that exploded in the RS+ and your board are from the same source. And this means that the ones is RS+ could have been a bad batch or something else happened here. There are many more boards out these with these same bearings and they are performing well.
They pretty much already are besides a few outliers
1 Like
3d servisas has some nice dual angular contact bearings on the finality . They are also protected from the elements
1 Like
Right. The transition to bigger bearings is happening now.
Whats that? A TSG saved my life discount…Do they really and how to you go about applying for that,nothing came in my box from TSG saying about this.Could you give me a bit more info or should i check they’re website?..which i will now after posting this
1 Like