Battle hardening motors

Why you don’t cover the solder points of the hall pcb?

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I do with conformal coating. I don’t like putting epoxy on them. Was not done when this pic was taken.

There was actually a little bit of various odd goos from the factory/somebody else on the PCB’s. It wasn’t done well, at all. I scrape it all off, completely clean the PCB, and do three generous coats of MG Chems #419D

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What motors are those again?

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They look like TB and Maytech

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The top left is definitely neither of those but yeah that looks like a Maytech 6880 maybe? with the 13AWG phase wires

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Top left looks like a C6374, cheapest larger motor out there. I like them but they’re not worth more than the $40 pricetag especially unsensored if it is.
Edit: Its not a C6372 because the shaft base is flanged. It must be a second TB motor

I’m having my maytechs factory battle hardened, but the lathe method sounds like it would have the best results for can hardening.

@Bindings_McGee battle hardening from the factory doesn’t cost much, I doubt a service would be financially viable especially for anywhere but domestically because of shipping rates, if it costs $25 to have the motor shipped both ways, people aren’t gonna pay 50 for hardening 1 motor even though half of it is shipping costs. Also TB motors leave the factory epoxied already and they’re gonna be way more economical at that point

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Not wanna say the motors don’t hold up better than before, but it’s still too less epoxy.
Disclaimer: from the motors I have seen so far.
I do not see a big difference in the amount of epoxy on there motors compared to the old maytechs I have. I really wouldn’t advertise gluing magnets to the can with a bit epoxy and adding a retaining ring „battle hardened from factory“.

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Theyre TB 6355 190kvs and Sealed Maytech 5570 190kvs

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What epoxy are you using?

Having dealt with them, what do you think brings the quality down?

Without having handled one, does this list seem fair?:

Poor magnet retention, small stator, low quality phase wires, single bearing?

It has 3 total bearings supporting the stator, its only approx a 6355 stator though and so its abut 650W less than other motors in a similar form factor. Its quiet and usually runs pretty cool. The magnets are low quality and shatter more easily. The phase wires are way too small, but, considering you should run them at 50 amps on 12S, its not too big an issue.

As a consumer, I think they’re good but as a vendor i’m going to stick with the products with the longest life

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There’s no such thing as battle hardening from the factory dude. Term was made long ago by battlebots people. Don’t use their word for a factory throwing a bit of epoxy on windings or a negligible amount in can gaps.

I’ve seen three broken motors - 2 with winding broken, one with can magnets, all “battle hardened” - in your terms, from the factory…

Send me a pair of the motors you hardened and I’ll conduct a “drop it from increasingly taller heights” test w/mine :heart_eyes:

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I’m glad I’m not alone in my distain for the term.

Thanks for the rundown. The brittle magnets is a little concerning

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Can swapping out the motors’ stock bearings with higher grade ones (such as silicon nitride) be considered part of Battle Hardening as well?

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Itll help but not battle hardening exactly.

Coating the magnets in between with epoxy and on the coppers on the stator is considered battle hardening

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What motor were you considering doing this with?

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Oh, i’ve not attained that level of enlightenment yet… just pondering, as i keep hearing about motor bearing issues - just assuming it could contribute to the cause of battle hardening

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It would be an interesting experiment. I have a trashed tb6374 I would try it with, if the bearings weren’t too much. Just need to clean up the bore but been busy with my working motors.

X105 CrMo17, Chromium Nitrogen, I’ll drop this here but it’s unobtainium (read : limited sizes available and super expensive).

Bearing “tech” is overrated given how we use them, be it wheels or motors. Just get the strongest possible ones you can find. And if you can apply corrosion protection (good grease for example), you’re good.

(Else no need to change your motor bearings if they are not damaged)

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