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After some subtle convincing the BMS has parted with the cool output screw terminals. I definitely would not have been able to desolder those easily.
After some subtle convincing the BMS has parted with the cool output screw terminals. I definitely would not have been able to desolder those easily.
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Maybe go bigger and can sit on it! Seriously. Add some pedal levers on the hanger. I wonder how that would go.
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I think u should get those too. Highest energy density of iron cells I’ve seen. Less powerful though. And the label.
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look my credit card is -1000 i got problems
what about the label? Don’t like monkeys on your battery cells?
Someone tell me if I should make a dedicated thread instead of hailing on this one.
I realize that I 100% should use the battery along with it’s case.
The BMS was so huge (33mm tall), taking it out gives enough room forx VESCs and a new BMS.
I also realized the bluetooth BMS prob would not work inside the metal box so I had the idea to run them on the outside and use the pins in the case to transfer data in and out. There are 8 pins, 4 are needed for the BMS leaving 3 for a PWM signal and 1 extra.
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our main man Tom Amerman bringing the tesla goodies.
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I like the monkeys on the cells.
Batteryhookup! I like their attitude and drive. I’ve got tons of the fancy bms that came with the cells i got. They probably cost more than the whole battery new but they’re huge and don’t know how to use them
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I got the bit to take apart the EMC packs but it needs to be longer and an extension won’t fit.
Drilling might have been attempted
I actually haven’t taken any apart and @evoheyax was doing them. Together we spent 4000$. Damn u batteryhookup. Have to make more vehicles. My selling them with the pcb was the plan but with no marketing and no decks at the moment to go in they just sit here. But decks will come.
How many did U get or is that all in that box?
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I got one of these Mercedes 880Wh. Kinda want another for the case and the battery because it is sick af, just heavy altogether.
look at the beef on this BMS
Would be awesome if it worked.
This is the connector I need to desolder to use the ribbon cable.
See the case? yesh those bolts came out with pliers not screwdrivers. Smallest torx ever would be needed.
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I put the BMW 16s pack in my City Coco scooter. It was so fast and went like 40miles or more. Then the stock 1000w 30a controller died. Totally worth it. Now to vesc it up. lol
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the bms probably works though no? i assume all the ones i have work but just dont have a guide or use. i forget the brand but top quality stuff and huge. somewhere someone wants it
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it would require some secrets to activate I think, I meant if the battery was working out of the box. Plus with taking it out I get room for stuff, get to add bluetooth.
I would rather invest my time into trying to make the world’s first water-cooled Esk8.
ha. to cool the motor? gunna have to be a tiny motor to be worth it. but i have a hole in motors i make with that possibility. with the hotter hubs. one day we should figure it. one day i get tires, wheels, and hangers finally here
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nah the battery and ESC. The alu case has a “water cooling”(some liquid) loop in the top and the cells all have heatsinks that touch against it on one side. The esc’s just touching the alu case would technically be watercooled.
Motors too would be sweet but unless I get one of the E-foil motors “they”(China) don’t have anything usable or affordable.
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I think their LIFEP04 32650 cells are a bargain… Perfect for top mount batteries.
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I’ve been thinking of the same thing. Reason being is: there isn’t any perfect options to cool a bottom mount ESC. Sure, you can have a heatsink protruding through the bottom, but this is less than ideal because it won’t be as strong, and is more susceptible to being pushed in from the bottom. If you run them hard enough, all internally mounted ESC’s without ventilation will overheat, and water would easily solve the problem. You wouldn’t even need that much- the smallest PC radiators, maybe only 4" across, would be more than adequate to cool our ESC’s.
I’m going to eventually explore Flipskys water cooled options.
Golden Motor is a cool company that has water cooled PMSM’s, but none small enough for esk8.
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cant you just add a big strip of copper sheeting to the esc while it sits in the box and let some airflow in? seems a lot easier and safer than going with water. could even be really thin or whatever shape to match the space available. can just cut it with scissors. i dont know the best way to attach it but surely worth trying before going all the way to a water-cooling set-up.
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The water would be just for the meme, this alu box is probably more than effective enough with no water.
Exactly what I looked at.
This is how I’m planning on doing it for now. BMS inside the case and ESCs directly on the water-cooling loop. The phase wires would go out where those fittings are so if I wanted to add water cooled motors it would be set up for it.
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