Battery setting help

Hey y’all, I need some help so I don’t destroy shit.

I’m working with a 10s12p pack consisting of Samsung 35E cells, so should be 42Ah with 96A discharge. I know, not a lot of discharge capabilities. Not worried about that as of now since that’s what I’ve got.

The board is a 4wd with 6374 motors rated at 165Kv, rated at 25A with a max current of 70A. Running one Flipsky dual mini FSESC6.7 140A (70A per side) up front and another at the back. I know, not the best, but got them for cheap from Flipsky. Both running FOC.

I currently have the board rideable with my questionable VESC Tool settings. While it rides, I’m riding it pretty easily because I’m second guessing my setting. Could someone review my hand written setup and inform me what to change?

I’m happy with the motor current at 30A. I have zero need for more power on this big board. So I’d like to keep that around the current setting if possible, for now.

Please, someone help me not blow anything up or catch fire to the board :skull:. Electrical is not my field and I’m trying to learn all this. But it’s a bit overwhelming with everything else going on in my life. Thank you in advance!

Your settings look good, very conservative, even for a flipsky.

I would do this

Motor 50 amps per channel
Motor break (this depends on how much breaking you want but I usualy set this pretty high on AT and slightly lower on thane -50)
Battery 25 amps per channel
Regen -14amp would give you better breaking feel at speed

Absolute maximum to 140. You want this setting pretty high, this will help you avoid cut outs due to overcurrent faults.

Realistically you can probably set your motor amps even higher. Even at 75amps you shouldn’t have any issues, but I havnt used a flipsky in a loooong time lol


Wow, I thought I was way off :rofl: good to know I was pretty close. I’ll start by bumping the motor absolute up and the regen up a bit.

And yes, I’m running this conservatively. Finding a balance of range and power. Kind of an urban all around 4wd board that can handle mostly everything on a long(ish) ride.

Technically 96A / 4 = 24A battery amps, but 25 is close enough :stuck_out_tongue:
Looks like the max rated safe charge current is 2A per cell which would give you a total of 24A, but that’s probably too low to be safe for riding, so doubling that to 48A would allow you to set each ESC to 12A battery regen. 14A is also probably fine, but I wouldn’t push it more than that personally.

If 30A for the motors feels good to you, then you can leave it like that. Although you could try bumping that to 50A like Skyart said, and setting a conservative throttle curve so that you only have that power at the end of your throttle range. Up to you!

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Yeah I caught the 25a per controller thing myself. But didn’t stress on a total of 96a vs 100a as it’s highly unlikely I pull that for any length of time, or at all.

As to be on the safe side, I think you’re correct, -12a for regen would be safer. So I’ll work with that.

I had the motors set at 50a before bringing it down to 30. It was a fucking rocket :joy:, at least for me.

After I play with everything and get comfortable with the new setup and also with the VESC Tool, I’ll start playing with other features such as throttle mapping. I’m currently using a Hoyt Puck and liking the “dead band” feeling it currently has. Again, for now lol

So to be clear, I can set each of the four ESCs to -12a battery regen? Just want to verify that you are aware that this is 4wd.

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I should also probably factor in the fact that I’m on 10” pneumatics :thinking: does that play a role in any of the motor and battery settings?

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You can safely set the regen setting a lot high then the calculated combined charge current for your cells. I’ve done a lot of testing with this. My regen setting is almost alway -40 even on small 12s4p batteries I like the breaking feel. This is because if you look at what is actually happening when you break, its almost never regenning that much. And even when it does regen a lot, it’s for fractions of a second. As soon as you start slowing down, the amount of amps going back into your battery drastically decreases. But if 12 is plenty, then yeah you can leave it at 12 and be super safe


That actually make a lot of sense to me now! Honestly, with this being 4wd, even set to -9 is fine for most of my riding. Except when I’m going faster and need to brake a bit harder. So I’m going to bump it up to -12 and see how that feels.

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Y’all are an awesome bunch! Thank you! I’ll now go on a cruise and have some fun. I look forward to learning more!


You should get a metr module, it will allow you to quickly change your settings on the fly so that you can make adjustment while you are out on your ride.


That’s on my mind. Currently have a tablet strapped to my board :joy:

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Looool! Yeeeeeees! Yeah metr modules are a staple, I keep a few on hand to put into all my builds

Would I be able to have different configurations to swap to on the fly? Or just the ability to adjust individual settings? Be nice to swap to a “fast” config and a “cruise” config.

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You can set up multiple profiles and simply swipe right to load one in a matter of seconds,

I currently only have one profile but all of them would be listed under “modes”


I need this lol

IMHO everyone does

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So I’m assuming I would need the Metr Pro Can x2. One for the front and one for the rear since I’m 4wd using split PPM?

Why you doing split ppm for? :sweat_smile: yeah that makes things a bit wonky

Just connect your can bus,

And use one metr