# Battery Current Question?

To make the calculations easier, let’s just use the numbers on the specifications.

My stock battery is an LG M50LT 20s8p.
15A * 8p = 120A peak.

2 controllers for front and rear.

They’re both 60A. That’s what it says.

120A peak / 2 = 60A peak per controller.

I’m guessing that the 60A that’s written on the controller means peak. Right?

That being said, I’m building a pack with Molicel P42A 20s8p (maybe 20s9p but let’s do the math with 20s8p).

45A * 8p = 360A / 2 = possible 120A peak for each controller.

But the controllers are only capable of 60A peak anyway so what’s the point in building with Molicel P42A?

If it were continuous, let’s say the stock is 30A per controller.

Let’s assume that the Molicel would be 20A per cell.
20A * 8p = 160A / 2 = 80A per controller. Am I right?

But that wouldn’t matter either way, right because 60A is the peak of the controllers. So would that mean that the controllers are the bottleneck? I don’t understand. I’m so lost. LOL. Help.

TLDR; Both 20s8p. Molicel P42A 180A vs LG M50LT 60A. Will I even notice a difference if the controller (I’m not sure if it’s peak or continuous) says 60A? LG M50LT already does 60A anyway so what contribution will this P42A even give me?

I’m just trying to understand it. LOL.

What’s the specific controller? Usually there’s a continuous and burst rating

I have no idea what it’s called. It’s Dualtron Thunder 3 controllers. I can’t find much about it online.

yeah I dont think people here are going to be much help interpreting scooter ESC ratings. Few people on this forum have scoots, and information can be conflicting sometimes

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEz3138DaiO/?img_index=1

What spacers are those? They’re pretty tight. Do you have a link?

Also, what’s that black thing?

Is that just neutral silicone?

If you’re constantly maxing out your throttle, the M50LT sag a lot and generate a good deal of heat. You’re also gonna lose power when your battery is low as a result of this sag. The user experience overall will be better with p42a. Since those do better at higher currents, your overall range will be very similar. You can also ditch the stupid GX charge ports and put something decent so you can charge much faster as a result.

I see that you’re in NYC. I’ve been riding here for years, and there arent all that many times to go all out for any length of time. I suppose that mostly depends on where you’re riding, but it’s not really worth doing this battery swap unless you’re finding the m50lt to be insufficient on the low batt % end/for charging speed. or if you plan on swapping controllers. I spent a bit of time with a controller swapped vsett 10+, doing 80 battery amps/120 phase amps to each motor. That thing was funny to ride.

I see. That’s a reasonable upgrade. I do notice the voltage sag and the loss of power when I’m going 75% done with the Central Park.

I didn’t think about changing my charge ports. Now that you’ve given me that idea, I’ll look into that.

My LG M50LT is done for. The scooter shuts off at 76V so I have to change the battery. One or more of the groups are done. Since I have to change it, I figured I might as well upgrade to P42A. I just wasn’t sure what the upgrade was going to bring me.

Also, what website did you get your tinned copper braids?

Oh yikes. Sounds like you may have a dead cell in there, I’d stop using that asap. I see why you need to upgrade. Hopefully it doesnt end up being another news headline D:

Also, p42a tend to be cheaper than the high capacity/low discharge 21700s. If I were you, i’d go p42a.

2 Likes

I see. LOL. I just realized we’re in the same Telegram group chat.

1 Like

if you’re still in NYC, NYCPEV is a solid shop to go find out how to modify these machines to peak performance. I used to work there personally and my thunder 1 did 98mph long before MoLi cells came out, and they know what they’re doing with those now days as well, check em out,
nycpev dot com

ps, that’s me on the left of the homepage;)