Given those things are now out of production and were expensive to begin with, you may end up paying silly money for 198Wh in a year or so 
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Did you try hooking up a Wii controller like Low Guido?
I bought a cheap clone controller for $2.95 off of eBay some time ago, so at least the barrier to entry for testing is pretty low.
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Nah I have not. Just used a standard ppm remote.
Better make it sooner rather than later before they are true unobtainium
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all their motor are sold out already
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It’s been like that for a while now. There are a few shops selling completes with the kits though.
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So, if I wanted to go FOC and/or 12S, would a Flipsky 75100 be my least expensive and acceptable option?
Is FOC at 10S possible with the VESC 4.12, or am I asking for trouble?
Flipsky is never an acceptable option if you value your cash and your skin.
The maker x dv6 is a great option for 12s tho.
So, you want to buy the ESC twice? If that’s the case, then just go ahead and get an expensive one the first time. 
A single VESC 4.12 will do just fine at 10S. The thing you will be lacking the MOST with a single 6364 will be brakes, and you say you’re
so I wouldn’t worry too much about that. I would focus most of your energy on the deck+enclosure and the battery. Get those two things right — and you can upgrade later if you want to in regards to the drivetrain and ESC.
For a single motor I recommend rear heelside placement.
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Turn down motor current to 12A and you’re there already
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Exactly. I already have a 2013 Landyachtz Evo deck and single stack fibreglass enclosure from @BigBen
I just need to decide between 10S5P or 12S4P since the pack can realistically only be assembled once 
That’s good to know, thanks. I was more worried about initial push resistance and if running FOC would allow for a lower torque start.
50 cells is more than 48 cells. 10S5P for the win.
Now, if you test all the cells and one or two are weak (common with new old stock 30Q cells) then a 12S4P is a slam-dunk. Leave the weak cells out of the pack.
That VESC 4.12 will do 12S in BLDC only mode (and FOC or BLDC at 10S) and no matter the mode or voltage, keep battery current under 25A.
20A is even safer if you run 12S BLDC.
I don’t have a load tester, but I did check each cell with a voltmeter and they all measured between 3.38 and 3.40V. Purchased July 31st, 2018 from NKON.
Thanks so much for your feedback!
I’ll assume my battery builder can load test the cells, but otherwise I guess I’ll go for the 10S setup as originally planned. Knowing I can choose between FOC and BLDC without purchasing a new ESC is fantastic news.
I’ll go ahead and order a charge-only BMS tomorrow. Cheers!
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If they are all sitting new and purchased at the same time from nkon and are all measuring between 3.38 and 3.40V then I’d probably opt for the 10S5P
50 cells is more range than 48 cells
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Whatever you do, make sure you set your cutoffs properly or you can junk your battery.
I like these for 10S
but the whole thread is full of advice.
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Too much resistance in motor. Feels not good
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Use a Mini Remote and adjust the center/idle position so it’s barely on light throttle. You can do this in real time while riding.
Also weight the throttle curves toward the ends and use low motor currents.
But then it’s constantly idling. A slow decay of acceleration is more what I’m after but that’s more discussion for the push assist thread
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