AT Wheels Balancing Guide

good idea, I’ll try that if these fly off

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So, I’m planning on using slime for flats reasons. It would be correct procedure to first balance the wheels without the slime, and then add it in?

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Yep. Weights first, slime after.

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I thought slime acted as a balancer? Pagin @Andy87

You get it roughly balanced with weights and then use slime to finish it off. Kinda like progressing thru different grits of sandpaper when sanding xD

If you do slime only, you end with a big blob opposing the valve stem, which is not ideal…

Actually ive had great luck using slime to balance my pneumatic tires.

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@rich has more experience in using slime.
I can’t say if it’s better balanced with or without slime.

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Slime helps a bit in balancing but not 100%. Balancing with weights after filling in the slime is not possible anymore.

It depends on the thickness of the tire if I use slime. On my commuter with thick 7" Evolve tires I don’t use slime and had only 1 flat within 2 years. It was a small puncture so I could fill in some slime afterwards and it worked well, still using this tube.

On my MTB I would have flats all the time without slime unless the tires are very thick (like some chinese clones). Guess why I know :laughing:

Some words about balancing in general:

  • The balancing weights are not always opposite to the valve it depends on the tire

  • If you change tires or the position of the tire you have to balance again

  • Make pictures of the position of the weights of each hub including the valve. Especially offroad you’ll lose some weights after a while and this way you know where the missing weights were without the need to balance again.

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So after 1500km, lots of anger and frustration i think i found the best setup.

I’m currently on MBS fivestar hubs and aliexpress tires. I’m riding right now and after 2.5km on the new setup i feel little to none wobble so far. The rear right tire does wobble left to right but luckily not up and down.

Those 2.5km are the smoothest i have ridden on my AT board. I definitely need to repaint the fivestars because the white just looks horrible.

So thanks to @Venom121212 for the fivestar inspiration and @moon for providing them, while everybody else is sold out.

I need to modify the hubs a bit due to the standoffs going further inside the hub so the belt sits right on the edge of the pulley.

i hope it stays that way. I also need to start trusting plastic hubs first, especially after the broken mbs baseplate

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I’ve been jumping the shit out of these hubs and they’re solid. Mbs team riders actually use them on their boards over the metal rockstars. They don’t have electronics, sure, but still.

I’d check out just getting some longer standoffs. They’re really cheap. I’m pretty sure they’re M3 threaded hex standoffs.

Great to hear a good review from you man. You’ve had some terrible luck!

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but the bolts are m4?

Are they? I measured some rockstar bolts the other day and I thought they were m3. Maybe I grabbed the wrong nut size to check.

@bobby be warned.

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yeah certain that they are m4 bolts

I would like to find non threaded m4 hex standoffs

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Why non? Planning a bolt all the way through like a nut?

Because my wheel adaptors are threaded. If both the standoffs and wheel adaptors are threaded i fear they wont tighten properly.

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Ahh that makes sense

I’ve been building for a year and i’m just coming across this thread now that i’m regularly riding over 30mph. Thanks for the solid guide. This is exactly what I needed.

I find this tape much easier to use than solid weights. It is flexible so it fits the curve inside your hubs. Plus you can easily cut whatever length you need. Cutting the steel auto wheel weights mucks up the adhesive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AGRNDA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Beads, no not those beads

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can you post a pic when you get a chance? Thank you!

I just got a box with 360 of the 5g steel stick on weights. looks like they are backed with 3m adhesive. Looking forward to balancing my 6x2’s on bergs today.